Kvindevins nytårsmenu

Det er tid til at tage afsked med 2017, og traditionen tro kræver årets sidste aften en særlig menu. Har du en klar laissez faire-holdning til dit kontoudtog, så stay tuned. Hvis du er gået i spare-mode oven på julen, kan du godt stoppe læsningen nu. Her får du nemlig mit bud på en 3-retters nytårs-/vinmenu, der bestemt ikke er i den budgetvenlige ende – til gengæld kræver den ikke den store indsats i køkkenet.

 

Foie gras & Sauternes

Nu bliver det politisk ukorrekt! Den fede foie gras er en fransk delikatesse, der virkelig kan få folk op at ringe. Enten fordi de er sure over fodringsmetoden af dyret eller fordi den smager så godt, som den gør. Foie gras serveres med et glas sød Sauternes on the side, hvis det skal være helt ”comme il faut”, og som man gør det i Frankrig. Sauternes kan være meget bekosteligt, men det gode er, at man sjældent har lyst til særlig meget af den søde vin, der er tyktflydende og nærmest mætter – og du kan derfor som oftest få Sauternes på halvflaske. Man kan dog også tage en anden sød vin, fx en sødmefuld vin fra Alsace – her skal du kigge efter betegnelsen ”vendanges tardives”. Skær din foie gras i skiver med en kold, skarp kniv, så du får et flot snit, og servér den på sprød briochetoast med noget blomme- eller kvædemarmelade til. Franskmændene sværger til foie gras og spiser masser af den. Hvis du synes, det er for barbarisk en ret, så skift ande- eller gåseleveren ud med en hjemmelavet anderillette eller en købe-én af god kvalitet. Servér den på samme måde på små toast med sødt tilbehør og sød vin.

 

Østers & crispy hvidvin

Nytårsmenuen ryger nu til havs, hvor du og dine gæster skal have østers. Ligesom det gør sig gældende, når man taler om vin, er østersens miljø også afgørende for dens smag. Østers kan have ”terroir” ligesom vin. Og apropos terroir: Der er mange, der siger, der er en særlig smagsmæssig forbindelse mellem østers og de sprøde og mineralske vine, der kommer fra stokke, der gror på gammel havbund med aflejringer af urtidens østers. Måske er det derfor, østers smager så godt med for eksempel Sauvignon Blanc fra Sancerre og Pouilly-Fumé, Chardonnay fra Chablis (uden fad) og Picpoul de Pinet fra Pinet i Languedoc.

Nap dine østers on the rocks eller med lidt citron. Personligt foretrækker jeg de lidt mindre østers, og her skal du kende lidt til størrelsen, der kører efter et dejligt forvirrende system. Østers med højt nummer (4-5) er de mindste – dem med str. 0 er de største. Jeg kan bedste lide en str. 2 eller 3 fra den franske Atlanterhavskyst, men ligesom med så meget andet er det jo en smagssag.

 

Kaviar & Champagne

Nytårsmenuen forbliver til havs med kaviar. Hertil Champagne, hvilket er en velkendt duo og en klassiker. Hvis du tager en Oscietra-kaviar fra det danske firma Rogn, en stak boghvedeblinis og en flaske kølig Deutz Champagne Brut Classic, så vil du forstå, at kombinationen af Champagne og kaviar ikke kun er udsprunget af dekadence, rigdom og blær. Englene sang i hvert fald smukke serenader for mine smagsløg, da jeg fik denne servering for nylig, og jeg synes, den fortjener et comeback på min nytårsmenu. Der er en særlig korrespondance mellem de mineralske, salte og smøragtige smagsnuancer i Champagnen og kaviaren, og Champagnen har også et ekko af brødsmagen fra de små boghvedeblinis. Kulinarisk harmoni. Og så må jeg indrømme, at jeg oplevede en særlig, barnlig glæde over at indtage bobler i både fast og flydende form.

 

Det var tre nytårsserveringer med tre vinforslag. Synes du, det bliver for besværligt med alle de vine, så drik Champagne til det hele. Det er det, Champagnen kan. Tænk bare på Lily Bollingers ord: “I drink champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.”

Det er ærgerligt, det kun er nytår én gang om året – for det her er noget, der virkelig virker! Rigtig godt nytår til alle!

 

 

Kaviaren fra Rogn forhandles bl.a. hos Løgismose på Toldboden og i Illum og hos Hav i Torvehallerne. Und dig selv den oplevelse! Deutz Brut Classic koster 300 kr. (v. køb af 2 flasker) hos H.J. Hansen Vin. Læs her og få andre bud på bobler og Champagne. Klik dig videre her og få mine tips til Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis og Picpoul de Pinet.

 

 

 

 

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