Chablis for fattigrøve

Chablis er en lille by og også navnet på det nordligste distrikt i Bourgogne. Jeg besøgte byen sidste sommer og blev desværre ikke voldsomt forelsket (selv om billedet indikerer noget andet. Det er 2CV’en, jeg er vild med). Byen var nemlig virkelig kedelig, og det lykkedes mig ikke at få et eneste glas vin, der smagte mig. Og det var altså ikke fordi jeg var sur eller forudindtaget. Jeg blev ægte overrasket over byens manglende charme og kunne godt tænke mig at tage en snak med byens borgmester om forbedringspotentialet. Nok om det. Chablis er verdenskendt for sine hvidvine på Chardonnay-druen, og det skal retfærdigvis siges, at byen ligger smukt i et smørhul omkranset af vinmarker (sjovt nok).

Der er fire appellationer i Chablis:

  • Chablis Grands Crus
  • Chablis Premiers Crus
  • Chablis
  • Petit Chablis

De mest prestigefyldte og meget dyre vine kommer fra Grands Crus-markerne, mens vinene med betegnelsen ”Petit Chablis” er fra de mest perifære marker og er nederst i hierarkiet. Hvis altså man ser sådan helt traditionelt og firkantet på det.

Hvis du spørger mig, er det nemlig dernede på bunden af hierarkiet, der kan gemme sig positive overraskelser. Sagen er den, at en typisk og traditionel ”fin” Chablis-vin er lagret på egetræsfade. Det kan jeg ikke særlig godt lide. Og hvilket held. For jeg har ikke råd til at fyre 300-600 kr. af på en flaske. Jeg kan bedre lide smagen af (og prisen på) en Chablis uden Cru.

I Chablis-appellationen har jeg fundet vine, der udelukkende har lagret på ståltank (eller meget lidt på egetræ), og de er helt anderledes end de Chablis-vine, der har været på fad i lang tid. Jeg synes, ståltank-vinene er meget lette og rene, og druens smag og karakter får lov at træde tydeligt frem. De er mineralske, friske og citrusagtige, og der kan også være noget æble/pære-agtigt i smagen. De er forfriskende og nærmest direkte læskende for at bruge et rigtigt farmor-udtryk. Fad-vinene er federe i strukturen, mere komplekse og ikke så umiddelbare at gå til efter min mening.

Jeg er blevet vild med en virkelig dejlig vin fra den anerkendte Chablis-producent Louis Moreau, og det sjove er, at da jeg så flottede mig og smagt hans ”store” vine, så sagde de mig ikke noget. Jeg har prøvet det samme med andre Chablis-producenter. Jeg tør næsten ikke sige det højt, for hvad hvis producenterne finder ud af det og vender hierarkiet på hovedet, så mine discount-vine pludselig bliver de væmmeligt dyre?

Mit bedste bud på en ”discount”-Chablis, der på ingen måde smager af discount, er Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis. Den er vildt lækker, og ifølge forhandleren kan den få skovlen under selv den mest sure vinanmelder. Køb den online hos Supervin, hvor en flaske koster lige på den anden side af hundrede kroner. Tit kan du få flere flasker og opnå en dejlig rabat.

Jeg giver den 5 ud af 6 hjerter ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

chablis_louis_moreau_2016
Den lækre Chablis, der kan charmere selv den mest tvære vinjournalist. Og også mig!
Indlæg oprettet 230

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