Tager din vinhandler røven på dig?

Forestil dig, at du står nede ved din grønthandler og beder om en pose sprødt sommergrønt, og han så lister et bundt runkne gamle gulerødder i posen i stedet. Eller du beder din slagter om hans bedste bøf, og så disker han op med et stykke kød, der burde være serveret som hundemad i sidste uge. Det ville man aldrig finde sig i, men mange har sikkert oplevet samme slags svigt hos deres vinhandler. Jeg løber i hvert fald ofte ind i den problematik, når jeg leder efter de lette rosé- og hvidvine, jeg elsker.

Hele foråret har min virtuelle brevsprække klapret ubønhørligt, når det ene nyhedsbrev efter det andet er dumpet ind med tilbud på rosé. Og nede i supermarkedet står der stablet kasser af “årets sommervin”. Alt sammen virkeligt fristende – indtil man opdager, at det, de prøver at sælge, er for gammelt! Mange rødvine vinder ved lagring på flaske – men det gør de sommerlige og lette hvidvine ikke. De skal drikkes helt unge, ligesom det gør sig gældende med rosé. Læs mere her.

Vinen bliver naturligvis ikke sundhedsfarlig som en rådden bøf, men den friske finesse, og de fine smagsnuancer forsvinder. Hvis du vil have den florale elegance og ubetingede friskhed, som den unge vin har, så skal du i hvert fald ikke hoppe på tilbuddet om rosé og sommervin fra 2014 og 2015. Philipson har endda rosé fra 2013 til salg!

Vinhandlerne burde holde sig for gode til den slags. De får en kunde ind ad døren, der er gået i byen efter en frisk hvid- eller rosévin, og så går selvsamme kunde hjem med katten i sækken i stedet for. I bedste fald er det uprofessionelt. Ligesom den dygtige grønthandler kasserer de slatne grøntsager, og bageren må smide brød ud om aftenen, må også en vinhandler se i øjnene, at der indimellem må ryddes ud på hylderne.

Jeg kan godt forstå ærgrelsen over at brænde inde med vinen, men det skal da ikke gå ud over kunderne. Forleden så jeg både alt for gammel Viognier og en helt mørkegul Sauvignon Blanc fra 2012 hos Kjær & Sommerfelt. Det går bare ikke! Det svarer næsten til at se en bøf med mug på i køledisken. Meny har også haft bjerge af for gammel rosé hele foråret. Jeg har ikke lavet en systematisk undersøgelse, men netop Meny og Philipson forekommer mig at være de største syndere ud i disciplinen for gammel vin. De er dog bestemt ikke alene. Det ligner et brancheproblem.

I mine mest desillusionerede øjeblikke tænker jeg, at de store kæder spekulerer i at købe restpartier af den gamle vin for at sælge den til den intetanende forbruger. Jeg håber virkelig ikke, det forholder sig sådan. Jeg håber, at det er mangel på faglighed snarere end et bevidst valg. Det er under alle omstændigheder mangel på respekt for produktet. Og kunden.

Hvis vinhandleren er brændt inde med paller af forrige års høst, skal han jo bare gøre sine kunder tydeligt opmærksom på, at vinen her synger på sidste vers – og prisen skal være derefter. Lidt ligesom når du køber jordbær til syltning i gårdbutikken. Hvis du kender præmissen, er forventningen en anden – og vigtigst af alt: Du føler dig ikke snydt af den fagperson, der skulle hjælpe med at give dig en særlig smagsoplevelse.

TIP

Din vinhandler vil helt sikkert prøve at sige til dig, at rosé- og hvidvinene sagtens kan drikkes i flere år, efter de er tappet på flaske. I vinens verden er der selvfølgelig altid undtagelser, men det er netop undtagelser. Hold dig i stedet til den kvindelige vinguru Jancis Robertson. Hun skriver sådan her i Oxford Vinleksikon: “Langt de fleste af de vine, der sælges i dag, er beregnet til at blive drukket inden for et år eller to efter aftapning. (…) Blandt hvidvinene er det Riesling, Chardonnay og Chenin Blanc, der kan have gavn af lagring.” En anden britisk vinskribent – Hugh Johnson – tilslutter sig sin kollega og skriver, at generelt kan man sige, at jo dyrere vinen er, jo længere kan den lagres.

Jeg vil sige det sådan her: Har du betalt mindre end 100 kr. for din vin, skal du have den seneste høst i dit glas. Og apropos rosé: Jeg har endnu aldrig smagt én, der har vundet ved flaskelagring.

Og så kan du jo muntre dig med at tjekke hylderne hos din vinhandler og se, om han har orden i tingene. Se efter druer som for eksempel Albariño/Alvarinho, Viognier (undtagen Condrieu), Arneis, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio og vintyper som vinho verde og naturligvis rosé. De skal alle være pivfriske og seneste årgang, med mindre din vinhandler har et virkelig godt argument for, hvorfor det ikke forholder sig sådan.

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