Mens vi venter på Bordeaux

En dag i forsommeren fangede mit øje et banner på facaden af den franske ambassade, hvor Air France annoncerede, at flyselskabet kunne fragte deres passagerer direkte fra København til Bordeaux. Optændt af rejselyst drønede jeg hjem og bestilte en flybillet til en af de franske byer, jeg længe har haft på min ønskeseddel.

Bordeaux. Bare navnet får boqueten af rødvin til at melde sig i næsen på en hver vin-elsker. Det er nemlig ikke bare en by, men også betegnelsen for vin og synonym med nogle af verdens dyreste af slagsen. Top-vinene koster nemt 40.000 kr. flasken for selv de nye årgange. Men da der bliver lavet buler af vin, er der selvfølgelig også vin i andre prislejer.

Jeg tog af sted en weekend i august, og jeg blev med det samme forelsket i selve byen Bordeaux. Langs Garonne-floden ligger der store flotte palæer i sandsten fra byens storhedstid i 1800-tallet, og det er storslået på samme måde, som Paris er det langs Seinen. Byen summer og er så livlig, at selv inde i de mindre gader, hvor vinbarer og restauranter ellers ligger dør om dør, kan det være svært at finde en ledig plads. Børn, gamle mennesker og universitetsstuderende i massevis – det pibler med franskmænd i alle aldre, der er ude for at leve det søde liv og dele det med hinanden. Det er så misundelsesværdigt og dejligt for en nordbo, at man faktisk glemmer at være sur over det der med den manglende siddeplads!

 

Saint-Émilion og Entre Deux Mers

Lørdag drønede jeg ud af byen i en lille Renault for at besøge nogle af de verdensberømte vin-appellationer. Først mod øst til Pomerol og Saint-Émilion (her er det Merlot-druer, der udgør den største del af vinproduktionen). Saint-Émilion var sådan en lørdag i slutningen af august stadig varm og godt besøgt af andre turister, hvilket dog ikke ødelagde noget af oplevelsen for mig. Her var afgjort charmerende med gamle, snirklede gader, skæve huse, pittoreske tegltage og et flot vue over vinmarkerne fra det lille torv på byens top. Byen ligger oven på en labyrint af gamle vinkældre, der løber kilometer efter kilometer under byens gader. Man får adgang til den vinøse underverden fra mange af byens vinhuse, hvorfra man kan gå en undergrundstur i halvmørke under lave buer og arkader. Der er også en underjordisk kirke – l’église monolithe – hvor selve kirkerummet er hugget ud af klippen. Virkelig cool!

Jeg snusede rundt i en del vinbutikker, og overalt blev jeg mødt af kompetent, interesseret og venlig betjening, der gav mig tips, idéer og anbefalinger. De var ikke fedtede med smagsprøverne på den lokale vin eller deres viden om den. Selv i butikkerne med vine til flere tusind euros (vi taler rigtig mange nuller) og hængelås og panserglas som en del af le décor, holdt de masken og tog venligt imod. Respekt for det, for der kommer nok alligevel en del andre fattigrøve igennem etablissementet sådan en sommer.

Efter en frokost i Saint-Emilion satte jeg mig bag rettet i Renaulten for at komme på sporet af nogle af de vine, jeg havde fået anbefalet, og som jeg havde læst om hjemmefra (Château Marjosse og Château Les Charmes Godard). Andre steder i Frankrig kan man som oftest altid lige slå vejen forbi domainet og smage lidt på vinene og også være heldig at sniksnakke lidt med dem, der laver dem. Men tilsyneladende ikke her, hvor der bare var lukket og slukket. Så kørte jeg videre på må og få ud i landskabet mellem de to floder Dordogne og Garonne (hvidvinsområdet Entre Deux Mers). Vinmark efter vinmark, men jeg fandt ingen producenter, der inviterede til spontan vinsmagning. Lidt slukøret, men stadig optændt af lysten til at opdage nyt vinland, satte jeg kursen mod Médoc-halvøen, hvor man primært dyrker Cabernet Sauvignon. Denne egn ligger mellem Gironde-floden og Atlanterhavet og huser nogle af verdens mest berømte appellationer og vinslotte (bla. Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux og Château Haut-Brion).

 

Médoc-halvøen

Det drænede marskland på Médoc-halvøen er fladt som en pandekage og temmelig ensformigt. Jeg havde godt læst om det, men det virkede alligevel nedslående. Her manglede noget. Også mennesker. Det føltes lidt som at køre rundt på Lolland-Falster midt under finalen af Den store bagedyst: Der var stort set ikke et øje. Hverken på gaderne i de små byer, jeg kom igennem eller på de vinsteder, jeg kørte ind for at besøge. I de fleste af byerne var der ikke engang en bager eller andet, der vidnede om, at her boede mennesker. Heller ikke en vinbar, der kunne minde om, at jeg befandt mig i et af verdens mest hæderkronede vinområder. Kun store slotte for enden af lange alléer, hvor de majestætiske træer var flankeret af alverdens flag. Intet tegn på almindeligt liv. Til sidst lykkedes det mig dog at finde et menneske på Château du Tertre. Men det var af den lidt småfjendtlige slags, der ikke uden videre brugte sin dagsration af ord på mig, der havde formastet mig til at dukke op uden en forudgående aftale om en smagning – og forudbetalt for den. Set i bakspejlet var det selvfølgelig også totalt amatøragtigt, men sådan har jeg altså rejst med succes i alle de andre franske vindistrikter, jeg har besøgt.

Sådan gik min eftermiddag. Stort set ikke et øje, men masser af snorlige og velplejede vinmarker. Det var som om min lillebitte Renault blev endnu mindre, når jeg kørte op ad alléerne til de smukke slotte ejet af banker, kapitalfonde, forsikringsselskaber og andre totalt anonyme, stenrige indehavere. Jeg kom uvilkårligt til at tænke på filmen ”Red Obsession”, hvor man hører om en grotesk rig kinesisk dildofabrikant, der ejer for 60 millioner dollars Bordeaux-vine, og hvor det i det hele taget er absurde beløb, der hives op af lommerne, når der er auktion på de store vine. Og så kan man jo godt forstå, der ikke er samme kultur som andre steder i Frankrig. Hvorfor skulle de åbne dørene for sådan nogle fattigrøve som mig, hvis det hele er solgt på forhånd eller skal bortauktioneres til rigmænds prestigekældre verden over? Virkelig kedeligt, at man ikke kan lege spontan vinturist her, for det er der altså noget særligt over. Men det må man nok gøre andetsteds. Til sidst begyndte jeg i hvert fald at kede mig, og selv om jeg aldrig kom så langt som til Château Margaux, vendte jeg bilen rundt mod Bordeaux’ centrum. Her kunne jeg i hvert fald få mig et glas vin.

 

En ny bevægelse i Bordeaux?

I september/oktober-nummeret af “Terre de Vins” har magasinet interviewet en række personer fra vinmiljøet i Bordeaux med fingeren på pulsen. De siger samstemmigt, at der er en ny bevægelse i Bordeaux- une nouvelle vague. De er enige om, at området trænger til at forny sig og ryste støvet lidt af sig. Det er en udvikling, som mange andre vinområder har været igennem inden for de sidste 10 år. Det skyldes bl.a., at forbrugerne vil have vine, der er nemmere at drikke og forstå, mere naturlige og umiddelbart appellerende og ikke så “bodybuildede” af fadpræg, som en af ønologerne udtrykker det. Vinfolkene påstår, bevægelsen er i gang, men det tager nok noget tid, før bølgen rigtig ruller, tænker jeg. Man kunne håbe, at en del af bevægelsen i området bliver, at vinhusene i højere grad slår dørene op og lader vinturisten komme på fransk visit.

Jeg smagte meget dejlig rød- og hvidvin i løbet af min weekend. Men jeg venter stadig på den dag, det lykkes at finde charmerende, indbydende og betalbar Bordeaux herhjemme. Jeg har købt, smagt og hældt horrible mængder vin ud i min jagt allerede. Jeg orker snart ikke mere coq au vin, og jeg har faktisk mistet troen på projektet. Det er indiskutabelt, at Bordeaux leverer nogle af verdens største og dyreste vine, men det brede publikum ser ud til at blive svigtet. Og jeg kan ikke lade være med at undre mig over, at de tusindvis af mindre producenter i mindre kendte appellationer ikke har fundet melodien. Det er farligt at hvile på laurbærrene i vinens verden, og selv om jeg altid gerne vil bakke op om mit elskede Frankrig, må jeg erkende, at Nord- og Sydamerika har givet mig langt større vinoplevelser for pengene end Bordeaux.

Jeg venter gerne på Bordeaux, og jeg modtager til hver en tid staldtips på mailen. Hvem har vinen til under 150 kr. derfra, der kan få skovlen under mine smagsløg?

 

Det du kan lære af min tur …

  1. Lav vin-aftalerne hjemmefra, hvis du vil ud at smage vinen på åstedet. For selvfølgelig kan man det, og selvfølgelig findes der imødekommende mennesker på stederne. Men lad være med at køre rundt i blinde uden aftaler, sådan som jeg gjorde. Og smag ellers på de lokale druer på Bordeaux’ mange vinbarer – mens du suger til dig af det myldrende og livsbekræftende tabernakel, byen byder på.
  2. Tag en frokost i Saint-Émilion og gå på underjordisk sightseeing i kældrene under byen. Det er sjovt! Byen Libourne ikke langt derfra skulle også være rigtig charmerende og kunne også være mål for en udflugt.
  3. Spis! For de kan så sandelig godt lave mad her i dette hjørne af Frankrig. Mæsk dig i foie gras med gylden, honningsød Sauternes, og giv den gas med lokale skaldyr og østers på store fade. Hvilken fryd!
  4. Start søndagen på fødevaremarkedet Marché des Quais ved floden. Kom tidligt og gør som de lokale: Snup en tallerken østers til morgenmad, og skyl havdyrene ned med Sauvignon Blanc fra Entre Deux Mers. Køb rigeligt ind af små dåser med foie gras, patéer og rilletter, nødder, frugter, confit’er og marmelader på glas og alt dit madhjerte kan begære – og din kuffert kan rumme.
  5. Tag derefter på loppemarked Les Puces de Saint Michel og køb skøre gamle vin-rekvisitter og andre ting, du ikke vidste, du har manglet hele dit liv. Slå dig ned på en af barerne på pladsen, drik et glas hvidvin og nyd det leben, der udspiller sig for dine øjne. Jeg brugte alle mine lommepenge på nogle mundblæste vinpropper i farvet glas, der i gamle dage blev brugt som propper i træfadene. Og jeg fortryder stadig, at jeg ikke købte den smukke, gamle og skæve vinpipette i glas med luftbobler. Jeg må vist af sted igen!

 

Gode adresser …

Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux

Jeg boede på dette hotel, fordi jeg havde fået et virkelig godt tilbud. Ellers havde jeg ikke valgt et af byens finere hoteller. Hotellet ligger centralt lige over for den smukke, gamle opera og huser Gordon Ramsays 2-stjernede Michelin-restaurant. Her var sjovt på den måde, at sjældent har jeg set sådan et mærkeligt sammenrend af rige og nyrige: amerikanske krydstogtturister med mavebælte und alles, arabiske drengerøve i customized luksusbiler fløjet ind fra Quatar, små sniksnakkende og forvirrede kinesere og så selvfølgelig mig, der måtte kigge langt efter Gucci-gummiskoene i montren i hallen og i stedet træde mine HM-sneakers i byens gader. Næste gang vil jeg prøve dette hotel, der så ud til at ligge godt: Hôtel la Tour Intendance.

 

Brasserie les Noailles

Brasserie fra 1932 med lokal, sæsonbaseret og traditionel fransk mad. Sørg for at faste inden dit besøg, for du har lyst til bare at sige ”én af hver” og gå all in på den fine restaurant, der ikke er fin fin, men bare fin, fordi den har originale træpaneler, spejle og tjenere med skjorte og vest. Très français! Book bord her.

Steder jeg ikke nåede, men som så helt utroligt hyggelige ud: Le Bistrot des Quinconces og Le Quatrième Mur, der ligger i  Bordeaux’ smukke gamle teaterbygning.

Indlæg oprettet 231

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