Hvidvin, filmstjerner og handelsembargo

Da jeg var i Montpellier i forbindelse med mit arbejde, havde jeg naturligvis researchet på den lokale vin inden min afrejse. Languedoc er jo et kæmpe vinområde, hvor der bliver lavet ubegribeligt meget vin, og jeg vidste, jeg ikke kunne nå meget, men jeg vidste med sikkerhed, at jeg ville smage hvidvin fra den lille appellation Picpoul de Pinet. Pinet er byen, som ligger en lille time fra Montpellier, og Picpoul er navnet på druen, som i øvrigt er en af de tilladte grønne druer i Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Da jeg ikke havde tid til at besøge appellationen under mit korte besøg, gik jeg resolut ind i en stor vinhandel i Montpellier og bad dem sælge mig den bedste flaske Picpoul, de havde. Den fik jeg for 9 euros! Da jeg hjemme i mit eget køkken smagte på vinen fra Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue, fik jeg én af de der oplevelser, hvor tiden lige står stille et sekund, det bimler og bamler i hjernens belønningscenter, og smagsløgene står og dirrer. Her var noget overraskende og overraskende godt! Da jeg kun havde én flaske af vinen, så jeg ingen anden udvej end at booke en rejse tilbage til Montpellier – og denne gang med tid til en aftale på slottet, hvis vin havde taget mig med storm.

 

Som at være med i en fransk film

En fredag eftermiddag sidst i oktober stod jeg så i indkørslen til Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue midt i Languedocs vildtvoksende natur og stirrede på … vinmarker? Nej, foran mig henlå et filmholds rod af lastbiler, lamper, lydudstyr, stativer, stilladser og myldrende statister, teknikere og aldrende filmstjerner. Således blev mit visit på det sindssygt smukke slot fra 1500-tallet drysset med en god portion stjernestøv. Vi måtte liste rundt for ikke at ende med at ødelægge en scene med vores klodsede optræden og for ikke at vække den slumrende skuespiller Pierre Richard, der lå på en meget henslængt måde, som kun en filmstjerne har format til, i en gammel blomstret sofa i en af slottets højloftede stuer. Cool – og fristes man til at sige: som taget ud af en fransk film. Udenfor var der sat ekstra spotlight på slottets kapel, selv om man skulle tro, det generøse, sydfranske eftermiddagslys sagtens kunne klare opgaven uden hjælpemidler. Det var i hvert fald nok for mig, der kunne iagttage lyset vælte ned over den parklignende have, hvor der var alt, man kunne ønske sig af havebassiner, bugnende granatæbletræer, slanke cypresser og høje palmer, som mistralen fik til at synge. Jeg var parat til at lade mig adoptere, blive ansat eller bare tage tjansen som kaffebrygger på filmholdet. Jeg ønskede kun at blive – på den ene eller den anden måde.

 

Toleranceministeren, der faldt i tønden med vin

Jean-Luc Parret, der viste rundt på stedet, fortalte, at slottet og dets vinmarker ejes af en russisk oligark, og at det lejes ud til forskellige grupper. Senest havde Dubais toleranceminister afholdt flere dages seminar på stedet, og ifølge Jean-Luc blev selskabet mere og mere tolerant, efterhånden som det svandt i vinbeholdningen. Noget var der heldigvis tilbage – og jeg fik også lov at smage på dette års druemost, der nu er ved at udvikle sig i ståltanke, før den skal på flaske sidst i november. Det smagte af noget, jeg gerne vil lære bedre at kende, og jeg glæder mig til, at Jean-Luc ringer og siger, det er tid til at komme forbi igen. Han fortalte, at de altid lader vinen ligge på flaske nogle måneder, inden de frigiver den, fordi den bliver stresset af at blive forflyttet fra tank til flaske. Tror, de fleste kan nikke genkendende til, at det kan være strabadserende at flytte, så det må man jo respektere. Selv om jeg mærker en vis utålmodighed i forhold til at få lov at smage på den færdiglagrede, helt friske vin.

 

Kan jeg betale med rubler?

I smagerummet stiftede jeg bekendtskab med både røde og mousserende vine, men min interesse var stadig primært rettet mod slottets Picpoul de Pinet. Og jeg var ikke den eneste. Mens jeg stod der og smagte på sortimentet, kom der først en restauratør fra Sète forpustet ind ad døren. Han var løbet tør for Picpoul de Pinet og kunne ikke bære at servere østers for sine gæster uden lige netop dén vin til (mellem Pinet og Sète ved Middelhavet ligger lagunen Étang de Thau, hvor der dyrkes i omegnen af 12.000 tons østers om året). Han drønede snart af sted igen i sin Berlingo med bagagerummet godt fyldt op. Bagefter blev døren slået op af mistralen, og ind trådte et ungt par, der var kørt efter samme vin. De havde fået den på en restaurant nogle uger forinden og kunne ikke slå den ud af hovedet. Jeg kan selvfølgelig ikke sige, om det i virkeligheden var nogle af dem fra filmholdet, der var sat i sving af Jean-Luc for at markedsføre vinen over for hans nordiske gæst, men jeg tvivler nu på det. Jeg besluttede mig for at holde mig til den populære Picpoul de Pinet, men da jeg skulle betale, måtte Jean-Luc bede om at få betaling i kontanter. EU’s handelssanktioner over for Rusland havde givet ringe i vandet helt herude i den languedoc’ske vildmark, og visakort-automaten lå ubrugt hen ved siden af kasseapparatet. Det var ikke lige det anspændte forhold mellem EU og Rusland, jeg havde i tankerne, da jeg drev virkelighedsfjern rundt på slottet.

Alt i alt blev mit besøg – ualmindelig venligt iscenesat af Jean-Luc på Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue – et af de mere farverige af slagsen, og da jeg drak på vinen hjemme, smagte den nu endnu bedre end første gang. Sådan kan det gå, når smagen tilsættes stjernedrys, røverhistorier og sydfransk charme.

 

Primadonna-Picpoul

Det er ikke nogen nem opgave at finde den sjældne perle Picpoul herhjemme, og det er bestemt ikke en vin, man vælter sig i på supermarkederne. Det skyldes formentlig det faktum, at Picpoul er en vanskelig drue at dyrke. Ifølge vinmageren på Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue bliver vinen kedelig og karakterløs, hvis man høster druerne tidligt. Høster man dem i slutningen af september/start oktober, får man en kompleks, smagfuld og spændende vin, men man risikerer også at tabe hele høsten til en efterårsstorm eller et kraftigt regnvejr. Det er netop appellationens dilemma: Mange vælger den sikre model og laver lidt intetsigende vine. Hos Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue laver man risky business. De høster altid sent – og de år, hvor naturen tager høsten, bliver der ikke lavet vin. Det er alt eller intet og på en eller anden måde nærmest ridderligt og ædelt. Måske kun et spil, man tør spille, hvis man har en russisk rigmand i ryggen. Der skal lyde et ’spasiba’ fra os, der godt kan lide den komplekse, fyldige og aromatiske Picpoul, de har modet til at lave!

 

Picpoul til maden

Hos Vintro på Ravnsborggade har jeg heldigvis fundet en ualmindelig dejlig Picpoul fra Domaine des Lauriers, som kan dulme min trang til at hoppe på et fly mod Sydfrankrig.  Ligesom vinen fra Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue er den tør og nærmest drøj i det. Alt andet end en bællevin, selv om den nu ikke er hverken tung eller mættende. Man må ligesom bare dvæle ved hver slurk. Og alligevel har den hele tiden en invitation til at tage et sip mere. Dejlig, diskret frugtduft og masser af citrus i form af lime og grape i smagen sammen med lidt grønt æble og friske urter. I det hele taget efterlod vinen et vældig ”grønt” indtryk – også med et smukt grønligt skær i glasset. Hvis ikke du skal en tur forbi Pinet og hente vin på egen hånd, skal du helt klart slå vejen forbi Ravnsborggade og spendere en flaske på dig selv. Jeg giver Domaine des Lauriers Picpoul 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️– her får man virkelig meget vinoplevelse for 80 kr.!. Det er i øvrigt ikke et standpunkt, jeg er alene med. Da jeg slog op i den franske vinbibel Guide Hachette 2018 har vinen fået topratings og en særlig udmærkelse for sammenhæng mellem pris og kvalitet. Køber du tre flasker hos Vintro, koster de kun 200 kr., og så bliver der endnu mere value for money!

De lokale serverer Picpoul de Pinet til østers, men jeg ved med sikkerhed, at den også klæder dansk pighvar dampet med Limfjordsmuslinger à la moules marinières. Vinen passede så utrolig fint til muslingernes havsmag, saucens krydrede elementer af fennikel og timian og den fede fløde, jeg havde jævnet muslingesaucen med. Dette mad/vin-match tog for en stund livet af min længsel mod stedet, hvor filmskuespillere drysser stjernedrys over russisk handelsembargo, og mistralen blæser vinterdepressionen omkuld.

 

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110 tanker om “Hvidvin, filmstjerner og handelsembargo

  1. Hej
    Er det muligt som privat at købe vin hos Chateau Saint Martin – er blevet nysgerrig på Picpoul de Pinet
    Mvh Sandra

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