Vinter-rosé

Jeg har elsket Frankrig, siden jeg var lille, og mine mange sommerferier i Provence flyder sammen til ét langt og lykkeligt minde om alt, der er godt: solen, lyden af sprødt baguette, duften af croissanter, venskaber, bordfodboldkampe, sommerforelskelser, lange frokoster i skyggen, Middelhavet, Alpetinder i horisonten … og de voksne, der drak den dér lyserøde vin.

Min mor og far startede i 1980’erne Ryslinge Vinimport, som var et mindre foretagende, kan man vist roligt sige. Importen foregik ved, at min storebror og jeg blev lagt oven på madrasser stablet oven på kasserne med rosé fra bl.a. Domaine Bunan i Bandol. Så lå vi der og læste Asterix og Lucky Luke, mens vores tungt læssede Renault slæbte sig op igennem Tyskland, og jeg drømte mig tilbage til Frankrig.

Sådan er det stadig. Jeg drømmer altid om Frankrig, og Den Franske Ambassade har derfor altid virket dragende på mig: Et lille stykke Frankrig lige midt i København i et vanvittigt smukt palæ med Tricoloren blafrende på taget. I starten af november befandt jeg mig så pludselig foran Den Franske Ambassade. Jeg var iført min yndlingshalskæde med et croissant-vedhæng i guld OG en frokostinvitation, og jeg glædede mig som et lille barn til juleaften. Akkurat ligesom når man rejser ind i et andet land, viste jeg pas og gik gennem security. Jeg tog de mange trin op ad den brede tæppebeklædte trappe og endte i højloftede lokaler en suite med gobeliner på væggene og store vinduer ud mod Kongens Nytorv. Efter et glas velkomst-rosé og lidt sniksnak på både dansk og fransk blev vi inviteret ind at sidde. Tre-retters Michelin-menu på vej og velkomst ved den karismatiske ambassadør François Zimeray. Jeg satte mig ned fuld af forventning. Og dér ved frokostbordet ved siden af mig sad den charmerende Laurent Bunan, hvis far solgte vin til min far for 30 år siden. Han kiggede på min halskæde og spurgte: “C’est un croissant au beurre?” (“er det en smørbagt croissant?”), hvortil jeg svarede “Non, c’est un croissant en or” (nej, det er en guld-croissant”), og så var den hyggelige samtale skudt i gang. Behøver jeg sige, at Bunans rosé – der i forvejen er én af mine favoritter – smagte mig ekstra godt den dag?

Forlæng rosé-sæsonen

Sandheden er, at god rosé smager mig hver gang. Også på andre vinterdage – også selv om jeg ikke er til Michelin-frokost på Ambassaden. Der er mange, der siger, rosé kun rimer på sol, sommerferie og picnic på stranden. Jeg synes både, det er mærkeligt og uretfærdigt at give roséen så kort tid at folde sig ud på. Der er ingen, der har fundet på sådan nogle regler for hvidvin for eksempel. Jeg kan da godt forstå, folk har brug for rødvin til bøf og dampende varme gryderetter, når termometeret er i bund. Sådan er det! Men hvis du kan lide at drikke hvidvin om vinteren, kan du også sagtens drikke rosé. Hvidvin er jo dybest set bare en hvidvin lavet på blå druer. Mange ville formentlig ikke kunne smage forskel på hvidvin og rosé, hvis de smagte vinen med bind for øjnene.

Jeg synes, roséen fortjener, at man giver den et længere liv ved løfte den op af sommerens hængekøje og tage den med sig ind i efteråret. En god rosé er for eksempel den perfekte wingman for skaldyr. Jeg har i løbet af efteråret drukket den til danske jomfruhummere. Uhmmm … I oktober, november og december, hvor det er nemt at få fat på gode blåmuslinger, har roséen i den grad sin berettigelse. Uhmmmm igen! Prøv at gratinere blåmuslingerne med lidt rasp og hjemmelavet hvidløgssmør, og servér dem med en flaske af Bunans rosé. Det er en kulinarisk duet i topklasse – også selv lydtæppet af plasken fra poolen er afløst af plasken fra den danske vinters heldagsregn, der høvler gennem tagrenderne.

En god huskeregel for rosé er, at den bør drikkes samme år, som den er tappet på flaske. De vinhandlere, der påstår, at roséen kan opnå nye komplekse smagsnuancer ved lagring, har købt for stort ind. Pas på dem. De er useriøse og har ikke styr på deres rosé-butik (læs mere her).

Så hvis du har rosé liggende på vinreolen, gælder det om at få den drukket! Gør det nu, hvor den stadig er levende og aromatisk og har de lækre danske skaldyr at danne par med. Og husk, at rosé er den vintype, der oplever størst fremgang i verden. Det er der en grund til. Rosé smager godt! Også i vinterhalvåret …

I sommer blev jeg sgu lidt små-sur på Søren Frank, som jeg synes, var hånlig over for rosé. Og over for kvinder. Læs min opsang til ham her.

Læs mere om rosé i øvrigt her. 

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69 tanker om “Vinter-rosé

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