Søren Frank kan ikke få den op at stå over rosé

I klummen ”Rosévin er som et afbrudt samleje” i Berlingske ærgrer Søren Frank sig over, at det er blevet lødigt at sætte rosévin på bordet. Ifølge Søren Frank er rosé kun for folk, der faktisk ikke kan lide vin, selv om han efterfølgende ved brug af en kilde, den berømte roséproducent Ott, skriver, at rosé er så nem at drikke, at selv kvinder kan lide den.

På en eller anden måde er det svært at forestille sig, at Jean François Ott taler nedsættende om rosé og sine rosédrikkende kunder, for selv om den berømte Ott-familie også laver rød- og hvidvin, så er det først og fremmest roséen, der gennem de sidste 100 år har gjort familiens vine verdensberømte.

Det er også svært at forestille sig, hvad Berlingskes læsere skal få ud af Søren Franks klumme. Her er en vinanmelder, der er totalt fastlåst i sin holdning til vin. Læserne ved nu med sikkerhed, at de ikke kan få et råd om rosé i deres avis til trods for, at det er den vintype, der i øjeblikket oplever størst fremgang. I stedet kan de kvindelige såvel som mandelige rosédrikkere sidde og skamme sig over deres platte og vulgære smag.

Der er masser af dårlig rosé derude, og det er ikke, fordi jeg er sådan en rosé-missionær, der vil omvende alle rødvinsdrikkere. Det er fair nok, at Søren Frank ikke kan få den op at stå over rosé. Men at skære al rosévin over én kam er ikke bare arrogant, men også dumt. Det er netop for at undgå de dårlige vine, at folk har brug for en fordomsfri og dygtig vinanmelder, som kan hjælpe dem med at navigere i deres vinindkøb.

I stedet for at sidde og harcelere over de gratis smagsprøver på rosé, som lander på hans kontor og vente på, at sommeren går over, ville Søren Frank tjene sine læsere bedre ved at gå ud og finde de sommervine, som han kan anbefale. Men måske er hans smagsløg så nedbrudte af tung, tanninrig mandevin, at han ikke længere er i stand til at opfatte de fine, spinkle, elegante nuancer, der er i en god rosé eller let og frisk vin?

Den her type klumme viser med al tydelighed, hvorfor vinverdenen har er brug for et kvindeligt spark bagi, så de fordomsfulde vinanmeldere får cuvéen galt i halsen. Det er so last century at tro, at rosé er for tøsede tøser og bøsser i pastelfarvet polo. Og det er pinligt at være velbetalt journalist på en anerkendt avis og affærdige vine og vinområder på så definitiv en måde. Kom nu! Slå den snobbede automatpilot fra. Lad nu være med at være sådan en parodi på den sure, bedrevidende vinanmelder.

Og en sidste ting: Hvad så hvis roséen er med til at få kvinder til at drikke og nyde vin – er det så ikke totalt genialt? Jeg tror, mange mænd ville elske at være i selskab med en kvinde, der indtager sin vin med et smil.

Når man ser billedet af den gravalvorlige vinanmelder, der ledsager klummen, er det svært at forestille sig andet end, at der må være langt mellem sjov på lagnerne for Søren Frank. Og hvis man dertil lægger hans arrogance og nedladenhed over for sit kvindelige publikum, skal han nok være glad for selv et afbrudt samleje.

Til Berlingskes og andre læsere, der ikke er flove over at drikke en flaske rosé hen over sommeren: Læs min guide til gode roséer her.

Rigtig god sommer!

Indlæg oprettet 229

132 tanker om “Søren Frank kan ikke få den op at stå over rosé

  1. Havde stor fornøjelse af, at læse dette indspark i vin-debatten. Kan ikke se hvorfor en “vinanmelder” skal have så stor magt for, alle menneskers smagsløg er vel forskellige, og det står faktisk enhver for, at kalde sig ekspert >.<

  2. Den bedste vin er og vil altid være den du bedst kan lide.
    Uanset farve, drue, land og pris.
    I det øjeblik du forfalder til snobberi, har du ødelagt det for dig selv.

  3. Dejlig præcis afklapsning 🙂 En nydelse at læse.
    Men hvorfor er der alene franske roséer på din liste. Chile, og australien for ikke at nævne Italien laver fremragende Rose til forholdsvis gode priser…og hvis du serverede en kølig Woodstock Shiraz Rose for Hr. Frank tror jeg han vil få trækninger i Jernet igen…. 🙂

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