I den nordligste del af Portugal laver de Vinho Verde. ”Verde” betyder grøn, og det hentyder til, at det er en ung og frisk vin, som ikke har været udsat for fadlagring.
Der findes en rød vinho verde, men det er den hvide udgave, vi kender bedst uden for Portugal. Ifølge de fleste, der har smagt den røde Vinho Verde, er det godt, at portugiserne beholder størstedelen af den røde inden for landets grænser. Det er en kras satan og en acquired taste på linje med surstrømning – du skal være vokset op med det for at holde af det.
Den hvide Vinho Verde derimod er nem at elske. Hvis du får en kvalitetsudgave vel at mærke. For i mange år var Vinho Verde lig med en hvidvin af ringe kvalitet tilsat sukker, der skulle please eksportmarkedet, og som mangt en ungdomsklub-gænger har drukket sig i hegnet i. Men nu bliver der heldigvis lavet masser af kvalitets-hvidvin med stor omhu uden sukkerknalder, og det virkelig sjove er, at de er til at betale.
Roséens efterfølger
For nogle år siden var det roséerne, der for alvor begyndte at erobre verden. Jeg tror, at det næste vin-boom bliver Vinho Verde, og jeg spår Portugals grønne hvidvin en stor fremtid. Hvis man kunne oddse på et vinfænomen, ville jeg bruge mine penge her. Den har alt det, moderne vindrikkere verden over efterspørger. Vinen er, når den er bedst, indbegrebet af friskhed, læskende, aromatisk og elegant – og så har den det plus, at den er i den lidt mere alkohollette ende (for det meste omkring 10-12 %). Desuden passer den til en tendens, der gør sig gældende hos især yngre vindrikkere, nemlig at vinen indtages rundt omkring måltidet og ikke kun under måltidet. Og så går den godt i spænd med grøntsagsretter, fisk, skaldyr og lyst kød, der nok også bliver hovedbestanddele i fremtidens måltider, hvor CO2-kvoter og miljøbevidsthed vil gøre, at der bliver længere mellem bøfferne.
Men det kræver vinhandlernes og importørernes store omhu og kærlighed. Gid de ikke vil være lige så indifferente over for Vinho Verde, som de har været over for roséen. Gid de vil give den opmærksomhed og ægte interesse og ikke bare tage den som en parentes i porteføljen. Og gid de ikke vil sælge dig for gammel Vinho Verde, der for længst har mistet sin ungdommelige, frugtige friskhed. For så kan det være lige meget.
Jeg vil for fremtiden holde øje med vinhandlernes beholdning af Vinho Verde, ligesom jeg altid rosé-tester dem (læs mere her).
Udløbsdato: sensommer
Som vindrikker skal du være varsom, når du køber ind og holde fast i idéen om den grønne, unge vin. En god huskeregel for Vinho Verde er, at den skal drikkes inden for et år fra høsten. Drik den, mens du selv er i grønt humør – fra det spæde forår og henover sommeren, for allerede i sensommeren kan den være på retur. Og hold øje med etiketten, for det kan være svært at få øje på årstallet, der ofte står med meget småt bagpå.
Jeg har heldigvis fået flere dejlige og friske variationer af Vinho Verde dette forår og henover sommeren. Senest har jeg drukket Quinta d’Amares Vinho Verde på Loureiro-druen og følt et veritabelt sus af grønt gå gennem lokalet! Jeg kom til at tænke på nyslået græs, krydderurter, pærer, mirabeller, pomelo og store buketter med lyse blomster. Alt det fyldte mit sind i det sekund, jeg nærmede mig glasset med min næse og dernæst lod de gylden-grønne dråber møde mine smagsløg. Livlig, lys og appellerende syrlig. Svært at udsætte noget på denne vin! Den får selvfølgelig 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Smag på fremtidens vin med Quinta d’Amares, der kan blive din for 95 kr. hos Otto Suenson.
Flere grønne portugisere
Mit køleskab har ikke haft en dag alene uden Løgismoses Vinho Verde på køl. Charmør under 100 kr., som du kan læse mere om her…
Nettos Vinho Verde viste sig at være en positiv aperitif-overraskelse til bare 45 kr.
Og så havde jeg en ret skøn oplevelse med Vinho Verde fra Skjold Burne, som var en elegant kavaler til mine asparges.
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