Guide til vingårde i Provence

DENNE GUIDE TIL VINGÅRDE I PROVENCE FINDES I EN NYERE VERSION – KLIK LIGE HER

Der er så meget fantastisk hvid- og rosévin i Sydfrankrig, at jeg indimellem har det som en haj, der står over for en fiskestime: Jeg har lyst til at kaste mig over det hele på én gang, men man kan let tabe overblikket og blive usikker på, hvad der er godt og hvad der er mindre godt.

Derfor får du her en guide til 15 dejlige vingårde, der med sikkerhed er et besøg værd. Listen er på ingen måde fyldestgørende, men nu har du noget at gå efter, hvis du er så heldig at holde ferie i området. Jeg har med denne guide forsøgt at dække det meste af Provence – nogle af gårdene ligger på kanten, men måske passer det med, du kan tage dem på vejen til din destination.

Domaine de Grangeneuve, Roussas (ved Grignan)

Hos de søde mennesker på Domaine de Grangeneuve skal du gå direkte efter deres hvidvin på Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne og Grenache Blanc – den hedder ”Les Dames Blanches du Sud”. Det er en fantastisk aromatisk og livlig hvidvin, der har været en personlig sommerferie-favorit mange år i træk. De er heller ikke tossede ud i disciplinen rødvin, så smag endelig på dem også, hvis du har den slags lyster. I øvrigt totalt fin vingård i et ikke særligt overrendt område.

Klik videre til Domaine de Grangeneuve her …

Domaine Alary, Cairanne

Bio-hvidvin, der smager virkelig dejligt. De er berømte for deres vine fra Cairanne-appellationen, men deres ”mindre fine” Côtes du Rhône Blanc, som hedder La Chèvre d’Or, er min favorit.

Klik videre til Alary her …

Domaine Saint Amant, Suzette (ved Malaucène)

Drop turen til dette domæne, hvis du har højdeskræk og/eller en bil med lille motor, for du skal op ad en meget snirklet bjergvej for at komme til Saint Amant. Stedet byder på virkelig frisk og elegant hvidvin og en totalt spektakulær udsigt over Les Dentelles de Montmirail og skråninger med vinmarker. Her er så flot!

Klik videre til Saint Amant her …

Domaine La Blaque, Pierrevert (ved Manosque)

Hvis du er i Manosque eller omegn, så slå et slag forbi Monsieur Gilles i Pierrevert. Han har ærmerne fulde af røverhistorier, og han ryster dem gerne ud, mens han serverer noget af den bedste hvidvin, jeg har fået. Han laver også en ren Viognier og rosé, der får englene til at synge. En af de adresser, jeg nødigt går af med, fordi jeg synes, det er så godt. Mærkeligt vinene ikke er dyre – de er stort set alle sammen under 10 euros.

Klik videre til La Blaque her …

Minuty, Gassin

Er du på de fine Ramatuelle- eller Saint Tropez-kanter, skal du klart runde Minuty og proviantere rosé og hvidvin her. Jeg foretrækker deres Cuvée Prestige Rosé, der er elegant, frisk og let, men hvidvinen er også stilsikker.

Klik videre til Minuty her … 

Domaines Ott, Taradeau

Familien Ott var forgangsmænd på rosé-området, og det er deri, Domaines Otts berettigelse består i i dag. Besøg Ott for referencerammens skyld og ikke fordi du får ekstra meget for pengene. Men Otts ultra moderne vinanlæg i Taradeau (som er én af familiens ejendomme) er vitterligt imponerende og et eksempel på, hvor stor succes man kan få, når man både har forstand på vindyrkning og marketing.

Klik videre til Domaines Ott her …

Château d’Astros, Vidauban

Husker du Pagnol-filmen ”Min mors slot”? I dén passerer den lille franske Pagnol-familie et vidunderligt slot på vej til deres sommerhus i bjergene. Dét slot er ikke bare en filmkulisse, og hvis du besøger det i dag, kan du få virkelig dejlig rosé og hvidvin til meget overkommelige priser. Tag også en gåtur rundt om slottet og ned gennem alléen, der består af vildt høje pinjetræer, der bøjer sig sammen over dig og næsten ligner noget fra en eventyrfilm.

Klik videre til Château d’Astros her …

Château Thuerry, Villecroze

Hvis du er interesseret i vinfremstilling, skal du besøge Château Thuerry, der har et delvist underjordisk vinanlæg, der ligner et museum for moderne kunst udefra og noget fra en fremtidsfilm indeni. Vinanlægget, der formentlig har kostet så meget, at pengene fint havde kunnet række til at gennemrenovere de danske folkeskoler, er kåret som en af verdens 100 flotteste vinkældre. Og heldigvis bruger de deres anlæg godt, for vinen er simpelthen totalt i orden. Jeg foretrækker deres cuvée Les Abeillons, der findes i hvid og rosé. I øvrigt er selve vingården malerisk flot, og den ligger smukt omfavnet af det sydfranske landskab. Du kan få en rundvisning i vinanlægget, men det skal der bookes tid til.

Klik videre til Thuerry her …

Domaine des Terres Blanches, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Vinderen af min store rosésmagning i foråret blev roséen fra Terres Blanches (læs mere), og det er bestemt en vin, der er værd at køre efter (også fordi det er et virkelig pænt område, gården ligger i). Roséen er en fin, blød, livlig og harmonisk vin. Elegant og klassisk med styr på detaljerne, sans for nuancerne og så er den oven i købet økologisk.

Klik videre til Terres Blanches her …

Château Sainte-Roseline, Les Arcs sur Argens

Stort og veldrevet vinslot, der laver sikker og god kvalitet, som du dog også får lov at betale for. Det er ikke billigt, men det er godt, og derfor er det helt OK. Her skal du faktisk gå efter den høje pris, for hvis du køber deres billige flasker, får du blot blandingsvin af druer, der er købt fra andre producenter. Jeg kan virkelig godt lide deres rosé! I det tilhørende kapel ligger resterne af den hellige Roseline, der døde i 1329, og hvis du bliver træt af al den vin, kan du kigge forbi hendes krystalkiste og lægge en offergave.

Klik videre til Sainte Roseline her …

Domaine des Grands Esclans, La Motte

Åh gud, hvor er der pænt på dette domæne. Når du kører på grusvejen op til huset, er der vinmarker på begge sider, oliventræer og parasolpinjer, og hvis du ser i bakspejlet på en klar dag, kan du øjne Middelhavet i det fjerne. De laver både dejlig rosé og hvidvin på lokale druer og så en Chardonnay, som jo egentlig ikke er på hjemmebane her, men som er frisk og elegant og værd at købe et par flasker af.

Klik videre til Grands Esclans her …

Château du Rouët, Le Muy

Her på slottet laver de en virkelig dejlig cuvée ved navn Belle Poule i rosé og hvid version, og begge mestres til fulde. Belle Poule betyder den smukke høne og er navnet på det skib, der sejlede Napoleons jordiske rester tilbage fra Sankt Helena. Gården er som taget ud af en film, og det er nok derfor, Woody Allen har brugt den i sin film ”Magic in the moonlight”.

Klik videre til Rouët her …

 

Domaines Bunan, La Cadière d’Azur (ved Bandol)

Familien Bunan laver vin i flere forskellige appellationer, men hovedsædet ligger i Bandol, og det er den vingård, du skal besøge. Smag dig frem til dine egne favoritter – i år synes jeg, de har haft mest held med den rosé, der hedder Côtes de Provence Bélouvé, som er en grapefrugt-saftig sag, men deres Moulin des Costes er også altid en sikker vinder!

Klik videre til Bunan her …

Domaine du Paternel, Cassis

Efter min mening den dygtigste producent i Cassis, og så ligger domænet på et virkelig vidunderligt sted. Gå efter sidste høst af deres hvidvin, der er frisk, syrerig og vildt elegant. Hvis deres Cassis-vin er udsolgt, hvilket den sagtens kan være, fordi efterspørgslen er stor, så spørg efter deres hvidvin fra marker uden for Cassis-appellationen. Især den på druen Rolle er dejlig.

Klik videre til Paternel her …

Château Saint Martin de la Garrigue, Montagnac

Hvis du befinder dig i nærheden af Montpellier, skal du klart smutte ud til dette fantastiske slot, hvor de laver en vidunderlig hvidvin på den lokale Picpoul-drue. Jeg besøgte slottet i efteråret, og det var på alle måder en usædvanlig og god oplevelse. Læs mere her.

Klik videre til Château Saint Martin her …

Tips til de travle

Har du kun sparsomt med tid, kan du slå vejen forbi Maison des Vins Côtes de Provence i Les Arcs sur Argens, der repræsenterer hele området og har omkring 800 forskellige Provence-vine, som du kan købe til samme pris som på domænet. 

Læs mere her …

Tips til rødvinsfreaks

Hvis du har en rødvinsdrikker med på passagersædet, har både Ott, Roseline og Thuerry rigtig gode rødvine. Gå efter de fineste og dermed dyreste rødvine, for de er bedst. Til gengæld får du vine med krop og fylde, der ikke behøver års lagring i modsætning til rødvinene fra Bandol (som ellers vil være et godt rødvinsvalg).

Foto: Frédéric D. / Photo Provence (motiv: Château d’Astros)

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