Kvindevin

Blog om vin for kvinder (& andre mennesker)

Bologna – og en vin, man bliver gravid af!

Hvidvin, Mousserende, Rødvin
Signe Wulff

”Det er den her rødvin, der gjorde mig gravid,” siger den tysk/italienske Valentina, mens et Mona Lisa-smil kruser på læben og hun kigger tænksomt ned i den vin, hun slynger rundt i det store glas. ”Først forelskede jeg mig i Sangiovese-vinen og bagefter i Augusto.” Derfor ligger den tre måneder gamle sjette generation af vinmagerfamilien Zuffa nu og sover sødt på førstesalen over vingårdens smagerum, mens jeg sniksnakker med parret, smager på vinene og tager for mig af de lokale specialiteter, de stiller frem til mig.

Vi er lige uden for byen Imola i den italienske Emilia-Romagna-region, og selv om vejret prøver at hyle mig ud af den med piskende regnbyger, og det lille domæne på den flade mark slet ikke er omgivet af vinmarker (de ligger i bjergene 15 minutters kørsel derfra), er det alligevel svært ikke at gøre som Valentina og forelske sig i både vinen og den passionerede, hjertevarme og hyggelige Augusto.

Det kinesiske Ø-mærke

Kærlighed ved første sip har også bragt mig herhen. Dagen før sad jeg på det traditionsrige salumeria Simoni i Bologna og bestilte pølse, skinke og stedets legendariske mortadella. Dertil et glas Pignoletto frizzante, fordi jeg havde læst, at det var en af de mest lokale vine, man kunne få. When in Bologna …   Første glas tog mig med storm. Det næste glas ligeså. Det tredje glas fra Zuffas vinhus fik mig til at gå smilende gennem Bolognas overdækkede terrazzo-fortove på usikre høje hæle. Det hele holdt i lyserøde nuancer: bygninger, terrazzo – og også min sindsstemning. Jeg besluttede mig for i stedet for at tage på min planlagte tur til en festival for en anden lokal drue, Albana, at skynde jeg mig at lave en aftale med Zuffa dagen efter.

Augusto viser rundt på den lille vingård og er pavestolt. Han elsker sin vin, sin historie og sin region på en entusiastisk og smittende måde. Hans far begyndte allerede at drive vingården økologisk i 90’erne – længe før det blev almindeligt eller et marketingsstunt for den sags skyld. Visionær og fremsynet. Som far, så søn. Augustos vine er blevet certificeret økologiske i Europa, USA, Canada og Kina. Det kinesiske Ø-mærke er hans guldgrube. Velhavende kinesere er desperat bange for kinesiske produkter, stoler ikke på myndighederne i Kina og derfor heller ikke på kinesisk økologi. Det eneste de rige kinesere vil have, er europæiske, økologiske produkter – lige fra modermælkserstatning til rødvin. Derfor sælger Augusto sine vine med ekstremt høj fortjeneste, og selv om det kun er få flasker, der bliver shippet til Kina, ligger 21 % af hans omsætning her. Han fortæller, at hans Sangiovese-rødvin, som står til 14 euros på domænet, koster 400 euros i Kina!

Lige dele teknik og magi

Augusto Zuffa er glad for mit besøg, der ellers er uden for åbningstid, og da vi går fra huset over til vinificeringsanlægget under en stor paraply, er hans talestrøm lige så ustoppelig som regnen. Han fortæller med italienske fagter på et solidt engelsk om den patenterede koldgæringsteknik, som han benytter og er opfinder af. Teknikken kan jeg ikke gengive her, da det krævede en ingeniør/fysiker som tilhører at forstå den proces, hans vine gennemgår for at udvinde maksimal aroma af druerne. Ifølge Augusto bevarer hans vine ved denne metode 93 % af de molekyler, der indeholder aromastofferne (imod 60-70 % ved normale fremstillingsmetoder). Det var noget med, at druer udvikler forskellige aromaer ved forskellige temperaturer. Og noget med noget gær og nok også lidt magi og fingerspitzgefühl. Jeg røg af undervejs, men jeg har også kun en sproglig studentereksamen og nogle papirer fra Humaniora at forlade mig på.

Tilbage i huset sætter Valentina lidt musik på, tænder lys og sætter sig ned og snakker, mens Augusto kommer ind med den ene lokale specialitet efter den anden: lufttørret skinke og pølse, mortadella fra Simoni, stegt polenta med rosmarin, ost og et hjemmelavet brød med indbagt bøffelmozzarella. Nu kommer vinene ind. Store glas bliver sat på bordet, men der skænkes kun lidt, så jeg rigtigt kan få lov at give vinen en svingtur, stikke næsen i glasset og hive duftene til mig. Og jeg må bare sige, at de 8 vine jeg smagte, var særdeles aromatiske, og det måske mest interessante var, hvor distinkt den enkelte vin var. De var alle som én ekstremt karakterfulde og særegne. Der var selvfølgelig nogle, jeg foretrak frem for andre, men det var en virkelig spektakulær portefølje af meget, meget aromatiske vine. Om det skyldes Augusto Zuffas patenterede gæringssystem eller magiske evner eller en kombi af de to, skal jeg ikke kunne sige. Og jeg har besluttet mig for ikke at analysere det nærmere, men bare konstatere, at Zuffas vine var virkelig dejlige.

Kærlighedsvin

Da jeg smager på Pignolettoen fra dagen før, opdager jeg til min store lykke, at det der var kærlighed ved første tår dagen forinden, åbenbart er mere end en kort flirt. Jeg er stadig helt vild med den perlende Pignoletto, men jeg er også vildt betaget af den mousserende rosé på Pinot Nero-druen, og jeg forstår godt, hvorfor det er Sangiovese-vinen, der fik skovlen under Valentina. Og den er jo Augustos heldige kort: Den gav ham kærligheden, og jeg forestiller mig også, den giver ham tilpas med kinesiske Yuan i kassen til, han kan lege videre med patenter og opfindelser og de druer, han arbejder så passioneret med. Og passionen var måske det mest charmerende ved dette besøg: At se, hvor koncentreret, teknisk og systematisk Augusto arbejdede med sit maskineri – som en fuldblodsingeniør. Og så se, hvordan hele hans ansigt og krop smilede og strålede over, at jeg kunne lide den vin, han havde frembagt.

Jeg har pt. en kasse blandet godt fra domænet på vej op igennem Europa i en lastbil, og det kan andre jo også gøre, for Zuffa shipper til hele Europa (her har du link til Zuffas webshop). Men pas på med Sangiovesen – den er temmelig potent! Og mig, der ellers gik og troede, at Sundhedsstyrelsen anbefaler, man ikke drikker, hvis man gerne vil være gravid …

Tips til Bologna

Frokost på Simoni

Slå dig løs med skinke, pølse, mortadella og lokale oste og skyl hele herligheden ned med lokale druer. Lad dig ikke skræmme af, at Simoni ligger i den meget travle, smalle og turistede Via Pescherie. Det er ikke en turistfælde, selv om du ikke er alene som udlænding. Betjeningen er hurtig, effektiv og venlig. Og maden er vidunderlig! Du kan spise indenfor eller sidde ude året rundt (med hjælp fra en varmelampe i de kolde måneder).

Middag på La Traviata

Selv om navnet er banalt, er maden det ikke. Hvis jeg skulle spise samme sted hver aften resten af mit liv, ville det blive her. Det er som taget ud af en film: Mamma laver pastaen fra bunden, far og søn tager imod bestillinger og vejleder om vinene. Og ovre ved langbordet ud mod gaden sidder en italiensk familie på over 20 personer i alderen 8-90 år og spiser middag sammen fredag aften. Godfather på den fredelige måde med gamle mænd i jakkesæt og kæmmet frisure og sorthårede kvinder i sorte kjoler og en figur, der ikke stemmer overens med de mængder pasta, de sætter til livs. Netop pastaen på La Traviata er uforglemmelig, kødretterne ærlige og gode, og tiramisùen uovertruffen. Jeg kunne ikke bede om mere!

Shop som en hamster

Når man går rundt i de små gader i omegnen af Piazza Maggiore, oplever man en ny form for weltschmertz. Det er den bundløse ærgrelse man føler over: 1) ikke at have appetit til at spise det hele og 2) ikke at kunne tage det hele med hjem. Men hvis du pakker snedigt med en tom kuffert på vej ned, kan du alligevel godt slå dig løs i de små fødevarebutikker og købe ind til spisekammeret. Gå for eksempel i Drogheria Gilberto (hvor, de har vin, nødder, chokolade og meget mere). Shop pasta og kager i de fineste æsker hos Paolo Atti. Og proviantér rigeligt af parmesan, pølser, balsamico-eddike og de bedste tørrede karlojohansvampe hos Tamburini.

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