Kvindevin

Blog om vin for kvinder (& andre mennesker)

Vinrejse: Guide til Cassis

Hvidvin, Rosé
Signe Wulff

Blot 20 km fra Frankrigs næststørste by ligger et lille fiskerleje, der har bevaret både oprindelighed og charme. Både Cassis’ lokale hvidvin og byens skaldyr og mandhaftige fiskesupper er værd at rejse efter.

Den lille by Cassis er et pittoresk getaway, og selv om Marseille blot ligger en snes kilometer og nogle azurblå fjorde – calanques – herfra, kunne storbyen ikke være længere væk alligevel. Cassis er en vidunderlig tidslomme, hvor alt jag og ræs bliver parkeret ved byskiltet eller båret med vinden ud over Middelhavet ved den spektakulære Cap Canaille-klippe. Klippen er byens vartegn og rejser sig brat 400 meter op af havet øst for byen. Cassis er indiskutabelt forførende en dag uden for den værste turistsæson, hvor solen er livgivende for en nordbo, og husenes pastel-palet minder én om, hvor dejligt der er ved Middelhavet.

 

Cassis i glasset

”C’est une question de goût” – det er et spørgsmål om smag. Det er en slags mantra, som man ofte hører, når man vinrejser rundt i Frankrig. Og det er et sympatisk udsagn, fordi det ofte falder, når vinmageren på et givent sted ikke vil gøre sig til dommer over, om man foretrækker domænets store bestseller eller husets lillesøster, som står i skyggen af førstevinens berømmelse. Man får (i store træk) samme behandling, uanset om man køber dyrt ind eller forelsker sig i vinen til under 10 euros.

”C’est une question de goût” er også en sætning, man bruger i Cassis. I løbet af min weekend i den lille by hører jeg den gentaget igen og igen. Det er det nemlig også det svar, du får, når du spørger, om den lokale hvidvin ikke bør drikkes helt ung.

Blandt restauratørerne i den lille by er der bred enighed om, at en hvid Cassis skal drikkes samme år, som den er tappet på flaske, selv om de også kan finde på at lire en ”c’est une question de goût” af.

Og de har da ret i, at det er et spørgsmål om smag, om man er til de friske og frugtige vine med stor aroma eller om man kan leve med, at friskheden forsvinder efter ganske kort tid. Det er nu mest vinbønderne med sidste års høst på lager, der benægter, at friskhed er at foretrække. Dem, der har fået solgt ud, medgiver, at vinen mister sin umiddelbare og indlysende charme.

De hvide Cassis-vine laves primært på druerne Marsanne, Clairette, Ugni Blanc og Sauvignon Blanc. Selv om man ikke kan skære dem over én kam, så kan man nok alligevel godt vove det synspunkt, at de generelt er aromatiske, mineralske, friske og med både en god portion kraft og syre. Det er helt klart hvidvinene, Cassis tager stikket hjem på, selv om der også laves god rosé og rødvin i området. Der er kun et par håndfulde vinproducenter i Cassis. De sælger primært deres vin til de lokale restauratører, og det er meget lidt, der nogensinde kommer uden for den lille by. Udbyttet fra de stejle skråninger og de bare 200 hektar gør eksport stort set umulig. Der er simpelthen ikke nok vin i forhold til efterspørgslen. Hvis du alligevel ser en flaske hvid Cassis på danske kanter, er den formentlig gået over sin mindst holdbar-dato.

På restauranterne og caféerne i Cassis finder du ikke sådan et spredehagl-vinkort, hvor alle verdensdele og stilarter er repræsenteret. Der er Cassis på vinmenuen her. Og når man drikker den lokale hvidvin til fiskeretterne og -supperne – og ikke en hvidvin fra Alsace eller Bourgogne – er det ikke bare et udtryk for lokalpatriotisme. Som udefrakommende forstår man også straks sammenhængskraften. Der er noget, der ligner et lykkeligt ægteskab mellem det maritime køkken og vinene, der kommer fra vinstokkene på de stejle terrasser på klipperne, der omkranser byen og kan ses fra havnen.

Det er værd at aflægge besøg på en vingård, når du er i Cassis. Og det er også værd at tage vin med hjem, for som sagt er det meget lidt vin, der forlader kommunegrænsen, og den kan altså være svær at få fat i. Hvis du er lidt snedig og pakker nøjsomt i din kuffert på vej ud, kan du da også sagtens checke en kasse vin ind på vej hjem. Gør det!

I princippet kan du nå alle 12 domæner i appellationen AOC Cassis i løbet af en weekend, for de ligger tæt og i umiddelbar nærhed af byen. Jeg besøgte i løbet af min forårsweekend Château de Fontcreuse, Domaine Bodin, Domaine du Paternel – og så smagte jeg på alle de andre hvidvine fra appellationen på en charmerende tour de bar på havnen, hvor hvert sted har sit eget udvalg af lokale vine. Kan du kun nå ét vinhus, skal du tage til Domaine du Paternel. Efter min mening er det appellationens bedste vin. Høj klasse, som ovenikøbet også er økologisk. De laver også en virkelig dejlig hvid Côtes de Provence fra marker uden for appellationen.

fullsizerender-41.jpg
Tag en tour de bar på den hyggelige havn. Nyd aftensolen og smag dig gennem alle Cassis-vinene. Og gå tidligt i seng!

Hvis du rejser til Cassis i september, kan du være med til vinhøsten. Normalt høster de druerne til rosé i starten af måneden og hvidvinsdruerne i midten af måneden, mens høsten til de røde vine først foregår i starten af oktober. Man kan ofte få lov at kigge med fra sidelinjen, mens der arbejdes i marken, og da september også er et virkelig godt tidspunkt rent vejrmæssigt, er det slet ikke noget dumt tidspunkt at lægge rejsen på. Der er også vinfest i byen i denne måned: Les vendanges étoilées. Anerkendte kokke disker op med fantastiske smagsprøver og gastronomisk show off, og lokale producenter af delikatesser og vin deler gavmildt ud af mad og drikke. Prøv at se, om du kan ramme den lille festival, for det er sjovt!

 

Værd at vente på

Cassis er blot en af mange småbyer langs den franske middelhavskyst, hvor fiskeriet har været definerende for byens liv, erhverv og kultur gennem århundreder, og fisk og skaldyr er stadig totalt afgørende for madkulturen her.

De lokale køber fortsat deres fisk på havnen, sådan som man altid har gjort det her. Denne weekendmorgen viser det sig, at kun en enkelt fisker har vovet sig ud i de tidlige morgentimer. Forklaringen er, at aftenen før hærgede mistralen den lille by med en isnende blæst, der gjorde al udgang til noget for de absolut hårdhudede – i særdeleshed i åben fiskerbåd.

”D’abord bouillir, puis baisser,” forklarer en gammel mand mig. Vi er en lille flok, der står på og venter på, at båden skal lægge til. Og mens vi venter, tager han sig tid til at forklare navnet på den berømte franske fiskesuppe med det svært udtalelige navn: Først skal fisken koge op (bouillir), og så skal der skrues ned (baisser), og derfor hedder suppen bouillabaisse.

Havnen i Cassis er sådan en tidlig lørdag formiddag fuld af en skønsom blanding af små hundeluftende damer, atletiske typer i træningstøj og gamle mænd iført vest, gauloise og kasket. Barfolket er gået om bord i den daglige rutine med at transformere stabler af stole om til siddepladser til Marseille-beboere, der i weekenderne strømmer ud til den gamle fiskerby. De kommer for at indtage en frokost på havnen, spise isvafler med børnene eller bare lufte de store solbriller for så at tage tilbage til storbyen igen sidst på dagen.

Mændene omkring mig ryger eller står med hænderne på ryggen og ligner alle som én karakterer fra en smal, fransk film, der kun vises i Grandteatret. Så utroligt karikerede at se på, at man næsten tror, at de er castet af turistkontoret. Men de er ægte nok, og de kaster sig med lige så ægte entusiasme over fiskeren, da han endelig lægger til kaj iført vind i håret og smøg i flaben. De spørger højrystet til fangsten, og de mest adrætte hopper om bord og smager med kritisk kendermine på de friskfangede søpindsvin, som der står fem kasser af på dækket.

Søpindsvin bæres i land
Kasser med søpindsvin bæres i land. Klar til at spise fra skallen. Der mangler bare et glas hvid Cassis.

Ud over søpindsvinene er fiskeren hjemvendt med blandt andet en otte-armet blæksprutte, der ligesom fiskene i kassen stadig er i fuld vigør. De flotte fisk bliver bredt ud på bordet. Blæksprutten bliver smidt i en kasse for sig og ryger ind under bakkebordet, hvor en hund stirrer med noget, der ligner lige dele nysgerrighed og angst på det mangearmede havdyr, der danser breakdance i sin kasse.

For en dansker er det et virkelig spektakulært og eksotisk udvalg, der ligger på fiskerens bord: fluoriscerende ti-armede blæksprutter, muller, fjæsing, koralfarvede knurhaner, sanktpetersfisk, en bredflabet havtaske, små læbefisk og en skorpionsfisk. For Cassis-boerne er det et helt almindeligt udvalg.

Alle fiskene på bordet spjætter ufortrødent, mens fiskeren sorterer dem og lægger dem frem til skue – de er vitterlig lige hevet op ad havet. Der diskuteres og handles, grines og vurderes. Den gamle mand, der redegjorde for bouillabaissens navn, køber en enkelt knurhane, der først holder op med at sprælle, da fiskeren stikker sin nyskærpede kniv i dens lyserøde bug og hiver indvoldene ud med hurtige, rutinerede bevægelser. Knurhanen ryger direkte i en pose, og den gamle mand vender veltilfreds om på hælen med sin middagsmad, mens handlen fortsætter. Det går stærkt, og der er rift om fiskene. I løbet af ti minutter er det hele væk.

 

Piggede delikatesser

Søpindsvinene, der må samles fra oktober til april er en lokal specialitet, der skal prøves på en af de små restauranter på havnen. Hvis du er ude tidligt om morgenen, kan du allerede få glimt af dykkerne, der i våddragt og snorkel bevæger sig rundt langs klipperne og samler ind til restauranterne, som således får leverancer af de små piggede delikatesser direkte fra det azurblå hav. Kokken skal bare klippe skallen op. De serveres på is, og man spiser den røde koral eller rogn med teske sammen med et stykke baguette og akkompagnerer havsmagen med den lokale hvidvin. Et guddommeligt match! Man bør aldrig indtage søpindsvin på andre måder – for det fås ikke bedre end her! 

Søpindsvin vurderes på havnekanten
Søpindsvinene vurderes med kritisk kendermine på havnekajen.

 

En religiøs suppe

Når man bevæger sig rundt i de smalle gader, dufter der intenst af fiskesuppe fra de mange små restauranter. Og der er virkelig mange restauranter i Cassis – og med garanti lige så mange opskrifter på fiskesuppe. For er der én ting, man kan være sikker på, så er opskriften på den rigtige fiskesuppe nærmest et religiøst spørgsmål! Hver provencalsk husmor eller køkkenchef sin opskrift – som altid er den eneste rigtige.

Og lad os så lige slå fast med det samme: Bouillabaisse er ikke det samme som soupe de poissons, selv om soupe de poissons betyder ’fiskesuppe’ direkte oversat, og bouillabaissen er – nå ja – en suppe lavet på fisk med fiskestykker serveret ved siden af. Forvirret? Med rette.

En soupe de poissons er mærkeligt nok ikke så velestimeret som bouillabaissen. Måske er det fordi suppen bliver lavet af revl og krat fra klippekysten – alle de små fisk, som er for små til en pande eller et fad ryger ned i gryden. Gerne sammen en krabbe eller to, nogle urter, safran og alt godt fra grøntsagsmarkedet. Suppen kan altså med rette kaldes for lidt af en rodebutik sådan rent gastronomisk, men man må bare konstatere, at det er et koncept, der ikke slår fejl, når den står der på bordet med rouille, revet gruyère og knasende croutoner. Det er en vidunderlig, tæt og smagsintens suppe, der på visse etablissementer serveres så mørk, at man næsten ikke kan tro, den er lavet på lys fisk.

Fiskesuppen er en smagsoplevelse, der bliver stående (nærmest bogstaveligt, hvis le chef de cuisine har givet den gas med hvidløg). Og selv på restauranter med mindre interessante menukort, kan du næsten altid være sikker på, at tager du fiskesuppen, så er den hjemmelavet, dampende varm og fuldstændig i orden. Det er nemlig ikke bare et religiøst spørgsmål med den der fiskesuppe – det er også en æressag og et visitkort. Har du en restaurant i Cassis, og kan du ikke lave en fiskesuppe, så kan du ligeså godt bare sælge møblementet og dreje nøglen om. Man har en fiskesuppe på kortet.

Suppen smager fremragende, og det allerbedste, man kan gøre for sig selv og suppen er – ligesom med søpindsvinene – at drikke et glas hvid Cassis-vin til. For selv om suppen er rustik, stærk og nærmest mandhaftig og vinen lys, sprød og frisk, så går det hele altså op i den berømte højere enhed.

IMG_0454
Her har du muligvis opskriften på lykke: Søpindsvin og hvidvin fra Paternel på restaurant Le Grand Large, der ligger nærmest på stranden, og hvor solen (næsten) altid skinner.

 

PRAKTIK

Cassis’ turistkontor ligger på havnen, og de ansatte er ganske hjælpsomme. Du kan også undersøge hjemmefra på deres (for franske forhold) hæderlige hjemmeside. Ellers er der også lidt hjælp her nedenfor. 

Sæson

Der er altid en grund til at tage til Cassis, men det kan være en god idé at undgå juli og august, hvor der er meget varmt og virkelig mange mennesker. Forårsmånederne, derimod, er helt fortryllende, ligesom det er noget helt særligt at være her i starten af september, hvor der høstes vin. Der er desuden vinfest i både maj og september.

Lufthavn

Den nærmeste lufthavn er Marseille lufthavn, som ligger tre kvarters kørsel fra Cassis. Det er dog kun i højsæsonen, der er direkte fly fra København, så hvis man vil undgå en mellemlanding, skal man i stedet flyve til Nice. Det er som regel ret billigt at flyve dertil, og herfra er der to timers kørsel og i øvrigt et stort udbud af biludlejningsfirmaer.

Overnatning

Cassis har mange overnatningsmuligheder. Nogle steder holder lukket i januar og februar, men der er altid et værelse at få, og de fleste kan bookes via hotels.com og booking.com. Hôtel de la Plage Mahogany ligger i gåafstand fra havnen rundt om en lille pynt og med en sød lille strand nedenfor. Der kan man sove godt og stå op til udsigten af Middelhav og klipper. Er man ude efter en særlig (og dyr) oplevelse, skal man tage en suite på Château de Cassis. Slottet, der stammer helt tilbage fra det femte århundrede, ligger på en klippe over byen og har en spektakulær udsigt over Cassis’ røde tegltage og det blå Middelhav.

 

 

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