Manual til rosé

Rosé kan være alt fra en svagt, svagt lyserød vin til en mørkerød, hindbærfarvet drik. Og dermed også sagt: Rosé kan være meget forskellig – akkurat som al anden vin.

På en eller anden måde har den fået et lidt useriøst ry, men det er virkelig uretfærdigt. Rosé kan være lige så spændende og kompleks som en rødvin og uden problemer måle sig med hvidvinens friske sprødhed og frugtighed. Ifølge Guide Hachette er forbruget af rosé tredoblet i Frankrig siden 1990, og jeg synes, det siger noget om roséens kvaliteter, at man kan flytte så mange (måske endda ret kræsne og konservative) vindrikkere  i vinlandet over dem alle.

En folkelig vin

Det virkelig sjove ved roséen er, at du kan være med til at drikke det bedste af det bedste og allermest anerkendte – og aldrig lægge mere end 200 kr. flasken. Det samme kan man jo ikke ligefrem sige om hverken rødvin eller hvidvin, hvor du nemt kan ende i 4-, 5- og 6-cifrede beløb, hvis du vil smage det mest eftertragtede.

Rosé er lavet af blå druer, men druemosten har så kort kontakt med vindrueskallen, at den ikke når at få farve som en rødvin. Forskellige metoder tillader forskellig kontakttid med drueskallerne – og det er derfor, man ser så stor variation i rosévinenes farve.

Den metode, der giver de lyseste vine, hedder “pressurage”. Her presser man druerne og lader mosten gære uden yderligere kontakt med skallerne. Er der tale om en “rosé de macération”, har mosten trukket sammen med skallerne i op til 48 timer og fået meget mere farve.

Provence er førende i rosé-disciplinen

Hvorfor de franske fagtermer? Fordi Frankrig som nævnt har den største produktion af rosé i verden, og navnlig Provence er kendt for sine rosa vine. Her udgør rosé over 80 % af produktionen. Så de er øvede ud i disciplinen, og her finder jeg som oftest også mine favoritter og tit blandt de blegeste af vinene.

Jeg ved godt, at den franske by Tavel ved Rhônefloden er den første AOC inden for feltet, og at de også kan lave rosé i Sancerre. Jeg anerkender, at mange holder af rosé fra Italien og Spanien, men for mig er det altid den provencalske rosé, der vinder mit hjerte eller snarere mine smagsløg. I modsætning til de oversøiske roséer, der for mig ofte bare smager af sød rødvin, synes jeg, den provencalske rosé er udtryk for et særligt raffinement. Jeg kan simpelthen ikke stå for de charmerende aromaer, og jeg er totalt fascineret af, at noget, der er lavet af én frugt (vindruer), kan smage så meget af andre frugter (melon, fersken, grape, hindbær mv.).

Rosé i køkkenet

Rosé kan – hvis du spørger mig – bruges til det meste. Nogle af vinene kan være ret alkoholrige og kraftfulde og kan sagtens stå mål med kalveretter eller en grillet fisk. De mere sarte er en fornøjelse som det dér glas vin før maden (der næsten altid ender med at være det bedste glas),  men også til fjerkræ, fisk og skaldyr.

Drik kun den seneste årgang

Uanset hvad du vælger, skal du – efter min mening – altid gå efter den friskeste vin. I virkeligheden er det jo dejligt nemt med rosé, for man skal ikke kunne huske, om det var et solrigt år, et år med hagl og kulde eller andet, der kan gøre det svært at navigere i vinens verden. En rosé skal være fra året før og drikkes samme år, som den er tappet på flaske. Det vil sige: I år skal du kun drikke rosé fra 2019. 

Der er naturligvis folk, der vil modsige mig. Men jeg har efterhånden besøgt en del vingårde, og når man har trykket vinbonden insisterende og længe nok på maven, og han ikke har mere tilbage af den gamle rosé, så medgiver han, at roséen er bedst, når den drikkes ung og altså samme år.

At rosévinen så oven i købet rimer på solstrejf på altanen og picnic i strandkanten, er måske en slags naturlov. Drik den nu og i løbet af sommeren – det er der, den er allerbedst!

Du kan læse videre her om dengang jeg blev lidt sur på Søren Frank, der var sur på roséer …

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