Mænd er fra Barolo, og kvinder fra Sancerre?

Findes der feminin og maskulin vin? De to adjektiver bliver ofte brugt om vin, men hvad betyder de egentlig? En feminin vin defineres også som spinkel, fin, delikat, elegant, subtil, rund og let at drikke. I modsætning hertil vil en vin kvalificere sig til betegnelsen maskulin, hvis den er kraftig, alkoholrig, robust, tanninrig og fyldig. Man kan på en måde godt se den spidse og sarte Sauvignon Blanc fra Sancerre for sig (som sådan en slags høj, slank og bleg Nicole Kidman-agtig kvinde), mens den heftige Nebbiolo fra Barolo nærmest bliver stående, selv om man vender glasset på hovedet (jeg har muskuløse Javier Bardem for mit indre blik).

Men foretrækker kvinder så de feminine vine og mændene de maskuline? Det er der ikke noget, der tyder på, selv om det er en udbredt antagelse, at kvinder bare helst vil have asti i litervis kun afbrudt af en afstikker til noget rosé eller et glas hvidvin. Sådan er det jo selvfølgelig ikke nødvendigvis. Ifølge en fransk undersøgelse foretaget blandt 10.500 kvinder foretrak størstedelen af de adspurgte rødvin. Andre undersøgelser vil sikkert vise noget andet (sådan er det gerne med undersøgelser). Formentlig er det sådan, at folks – og kvinders – smag for en bestemt vintype snarere er et spørgsmål om tillæring, dannelse, kultur og erfaring.

 

En feminin herrevin

Der er også masser af kvinder, der producerer vin, selv om det har været et meget mandsdomineret felt. Når man læser om vin og besøger vinhuse rundt omkring, er det tydeligt, at kvinder stødt og roligt bevæger sig ind i en branche, der ellers traditionelt har været præget af maskuline aktører. Det kan man som moderne, nordisk kvinde måske ikke se de store problemer i. Men i det konservative og traditionsrige Barolo for eksempel, er det en helt anden historie. Den første kvindelige vinmager i Barolo – Chiara Boschis – lagde sig ud med nærmest alle mænd i lokalsamfundet, da hun som helt ung i 1990 overtog domænet E. Pira e Figli. Ikke alene var det en kvinde, der skulle drive gården– hun ville også lave om på de traditionelle fremstillingsmetoder! Det gjorde hun sammen med en lille flok andre “modernister”, og det blev til en regulær revolution i området mellem dem og “traditionalisterne”. I dag er hun en indflydelsesrig vinmager i Barolo, hendes lækre vine har kultstatus, og de høster høje karakterer blandt vinanmeldere og Barolo-entusiaster. De kan dog ikke kategoriseres som feminine (sådan som skitseret ovenfor), da de er både kraftfulde, robuste og tannin- og alkoholrige.

Også som vinkøbere har kvinder stor indflydelse. Kvinder udgør 70 % af kunder, der køber vin i de største vinforbrugende lande, og det er altså et uomtvisteligt faktum, at kvinder har indvirkning på vinindustrien – både i produktionen og i hele økonomien omkring vin. Det inspirerede i 2007 franskmanden Didier Martin til at stifte en ny vinkonkurrence – Le Concours Mondial des Féminalise. Konkurrencen har fundet sted hvert år siden i Beaune i Frankrig, og når den løber af stablen, mødes hundredvis af kvinder fra vinbranchen (ønologer, sommelierer, vinmagere, vinproducenter, vinhandlere etc.) og blindsmager de mange tusind vine, der sendes til konkurrencen fra domæner og vinhuse i hele verden, som ønsker sig kvindernes blåstempling.

 

En feminin udmærkelse

Didier Martin siger, at han ikke er feminist, men at han med stiftelsen af konkurrencen ønskede at Féminalise-medaljen skulle være et referencepunkt for kvindelige vinforbrugere. Samtidig ville han have verden til at anerkende den viden og ekspertise, kvinder, der beskæftiger sig med vin, ligger inde med. Derfor understreger han, at medaljen ikke kun er noget, kvinder skal kigge efter – mændene bør også holde øje med den, for en vin med en Féminalise-medalje er kvalitetssikret af professionelle vinfolk, og som der står på websitet: ”A Féminalise medal guarantees you a wine appreciated by women, and which has all the requirements to appeal to men.” Så hold øje med den lille runde mærkat med kvindeprofilen, når du køber vin. Og hvis du er kvinde med forstand på vin, kan du tilmelde dig som smagsdommer, når de åbner op for tilmeldinger i januar 2018. Hvis du synes, det lyder sjovt, så læs mere her.

 

Hvis du vil lege med på legen om feminin og maskulin vin … 

En rigtig feminin kvindevin kunne være en hvid Bordeaux-vin fra appellationen Entre Deux Mers. Det er et totalt ringeagtet fattigrøvsområde, som jeg med stor fornøjelse besøgte for nogle weekender siden. Nu har jeg heldigvis fundet en af de dejlige hvidvine herhjemme: Château Roux de Beaucés 2016 er lavet på 80 % Sauvignon Blanc og 20 % Sémillon, og den er indbydende, cremet og smager af abrikoser. Sauvignon Blanc sørger for friskhed og syre, mens Sémillon giver frugtsødme og lækkerhed. Koster beskedne 69 kr. hos Lautia. 

Skal du have en maskulin (kvinde)vin, så prøv den powerfulde Barolo-kvinde Boschis ligeså powerfulde vin, der starter blødt og lækkert i næsen, og så trykker tannin-speederen i bund, når du smager på den – på den gode måde vel at mærke. Drik den som tilbehør til en onglet-bøf, og englene vil synge for dig (men den kan godt gøre lidt ondt på kontoudtoget, sådan som Barolo’er som oftest gør). Den fås hos Erik Sørensen Vin til 600 kr.

 

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