”Sine sole nihil” – uden solen intet. Det budskab kan jeg huske fra dengang, jeg redigerede Niels Lillelunds grundige bog om Rhône-vinene, og han omtalte Château Mourges du Grès som et af Costières de Nîmes’ bedste domæner.
Det er statement, der vækker genklang hos en sjæl, der indimellem føler sig fanget i et lidt for nordligt set-up. Og solen mødte mig allerede på etiketten, da jeg forleden tog Mourgues du Grès’ Galets Dorés ud af køleskabet, for domænet har det smukke budskab stående i logoet sammen med en håndfuld solstråler.
Gyldne dråber
Vi er i Costières de Nîmes – den sydligste af Rhône-appellationerne, hvor solen skinner mere end man kan forestille sig, mens efterårskulden langsomt sniger sig ind på én. Den gamle kliché om, at vin er solskin på flaske, gav dyb mening, da jeg sad med den gyldne vin, der lyste smukt i glasset. I et kort sekund synes jeg næsten, den blinkede til mig.
Til trods for den flirtende funklen var min første reaktion på farven frygt, for normalt betyder gul ’oxideret’, og da jeg foretrækker mine hvidvine unge, friske og frejdige og ikke-oxiderede, var der udrykning og alarm i mit indre.
Men der var absolut intet oxideret over denne vin. Vinen er sammensat af de klassiske Provence- og Rhône-hvidvinsdruer Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Rolle, Marselan og Marsanne, og det er formentlig Marsanne, der er ophavsmand til den dybe og gyldne farve – akkurat som den er det i vinene fra Cassis. Læs mere om Cassis her.
Lysterapi på flaske
Uden sol intet– ja, det kan godt være. Men i dette varme vinområde kan solen faktisk være et problem, når man skal lave hvidvin, fordi de ofte ender med at blive for tunge, mangle syre og blive flade og kedelige.
Det var dog bestemt ikke tilfældet med denne vin, der var meget livlig og sprød. Men den havde mere end den rene, umiddelbare friskhed, som jeg så ofte falder for. Ud over en behagelig tilsynekomst af frugter i æble/pære-genren, modne citrusfrugter og noget blomster-agtigt havde den en ekstra dimension i form af en god, blød fylde, som blev efterfulgt af en lang og behagelig syre.
Den var rich, lækker og frisk i det på samme måde som en perfekt afstemt creme i en fransk citrontærte (som jeg vil gå gennem ild og vand for). Det var også en vin, der tog sig god tid til at udstille alle sine fortræffeligheder. Og dem var der mange af. Jeg var solgt, og jeg giver glad vinen 6 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ for dens mange kvaliteter set i forhold til den relativt beskedne pris på 70 kr. hos Bichel. Vinen er ovenikøbet økologisk.
Spar pengene til den lysterapi-lampe, du havde tænkt dig at investere i. Køb en kasse Galets Dorés i stedet, og lad den gyldne sine sole nihil-vin lyse op i efterårets skumring. Så går solen ikke ned lige foreløbig.
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