Hvis jeg havde en restaurant …

Jeg har tabt mit hjerte – eller rettere 5 styk – til Wolf fra Pfalz. Det var en Pinot Noir, der gjorde udslaget. Det kan du læse mere om her.

Det interessante ved det møde var også, at det viste sig, at Villa Wolf havde mere på programmet end ”bare” den vidunderlige Pinot Noir – nemlig en serie af basisvine på enkeltdruer (altså vine, hvor der kun er én variant/slags druer). Den serie hedder Varietal Values, og den navngivning giver dyb mening, for her er virkelig value for money.

 

Vinens Mick Jagger

Villa Wolfs vinmager Ernst Loosen er kendt for at være lidt af en tryllekunstner, når det kommer til Riesling. Det siges, at der blev lavet udmærket vin på Villa Wolf gennem mere end hundrede år, men at det var med Ernst Loosens overtagelse, at der virkelig skete noget for kvaliteten på stedet.

Loosen har taget Decanter’s pris Man of the Year for sit arbejde med Riesling og er blevet kaldt vinverdenens Mick Jagger. Vist mest på grund af sit store garn, men han er sgu også lidt af en rockstjerne. Jeg er i hvert fald fan!

Ud over Pinot Noir 2016 har min smagssans haft fornøjelsen af Riesling 2017, Pinot Gris 2017 og Gewürztraminer 2017. Jeg var vild med hver og én af dem. Gewürztramineren var sød, og jeg gemmer min anmeldelse af den til en artikel om vine i den søde genre. Men jeg kan godt afsløre nu, at der bliver rystet hjerter ud af ærmet til den også.

 

Villa Wolf Riesling 2017

Normalt kan ord som ’syrlig’ og ’spids’ godt have negative associationer. Men ikke her! Wolfs Riesling prikker dig på tungen og kaster om sig med smagsnuancer af moden grape, friske abrikoser og hvide nektariner. På den ene side byder vinen på en høj syre, på den anden en stor frugtighed, og de to ting til sammen endte ud i et ualmindeligt godt balanceret resultat. Det er ikke en vin for dem, der søger den tyktflydende terpentin-stil i deres Riesling – denne vin er i den pivfriske, nærmest opkvikkende ende af Riesling-skalaen. Og en virkelig god repræsentant for den stil.

5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Køb den hos wine.dk til 99 kr. 

Villa Wolf Pinot Gris 2017

Pinot Gris er indimellem lig med sød vin, oftest er der tørre, og det kan gøre det lidt svært at navigere i, men her har vi en tør udgave. Og hvilken udgave! Charmerende, frugtig og bare godt skåret. Let parfumeret dansede den livligt rundt i glasset og sendte noter af melon og modne pærer op i næsen på mig, og selv om det fik mig til at tænke, at forventningens glæde er den største, blev jeg ikke skuffet. Vinen var aromatisk, saftig og totalt veloplagt, og jeg svømmede helt hen. Eneste anke er, at hvis du er til instant likeable vin, der sidder lige i skabet, risikerer du, at vinen forsvinder som dug for solen, og du pludselig sidder tilbage med en tom flaske …

5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Køb den hos wine.dk til 99 kr. 

 

Summa summarum efter at have været gennem Villa Wolf-vinene er, at hvis jeg havde en restaurant, ville jeg uden tøven vælge de her Varietal Values som min restaurants basis-vine. Jeg undrer mig stadig over, at der ikke er flere restauranter, der prioriterer den nederste del af vinkortet, så almindelige dødelige kan få sig en dejlig vinoplevelse uden at blive ruineret. Det kunne Wolf lave om på!

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