Når førsteelskeren ikke nødvendigvis smager bedst …

Der findes mange vinregioner, hvor en bestemt vintype er totalt dominerende – hvilket den som regel er, fordi netop dén region er velegnet til dyrkning af netop dén type vin eller drue. Det er logisk nok. Men mange af områderne har også andre typer vin, og fordi jeg godt kan lide outsidere, wildcards og overraskelser, så synes jeg, det er sjovt at fjerne blikket fra førsteelskeren, der har en tendens til altid at stjæle rampelyset.

 

Det kunne man gøre ved at smage på det sydlige Rhônes hvidvine frem for de rødvine, som hele verden (med rette) elsker området for. I Châteauneuf-du-Pape er hvidvinene ”stadig en parentes i den samlede produktion”, som Niels Lillelund skriver i sin tjekkede og omfattende bog Vinene fra Rhône. Kun hver 16. flaske fra Châteauneuf-du-Pape indeholder hvidvin, og det er rødvinene, der trækker det store publikum. De grønne druer er historisk set for en stor del blevet brugt til at fortynde den tunge og af og til for tunge rødvin med. Det kan også være svært at fremelske en hvidvin med syre og friskhed, når man har så varmt et klima som her. Men når hvidvinen er god, er den virkelig god, så hvis du bliver budt på et glas hvid Châteauneuf, så tag imod det!

 

Eller hvad med Beaujolais? Som man generelt forbinder med lette rødvine og den indimellem ret sure Beaujolais Nouveau, der blev kørt ekspres til Danmark af Thorkild Thyrring i 80’erne. Kun 10 % af vinmarkerne i Beaujolais er ifølge Oxford vinleksikon beplantet med grønne druer – så det kan man vist også godt kalde en birolle-indehaver. Hvis du vil smage en hvid Beaujolais, som er mineralsk, let, crisp, så har Kjær Sommerfeldt præcis sådan én i form af Château des Jacques, Grand Clos de Loyse. Den skal have 4 ❤️❤️❤️❤️ for sin finesse, spinkelhed og rene mineralske udtryk.

 

Og så er der Barolo som måske den ultimative førsteelsker. Mastodont-rødvinene fra denne lille appellation i Norditalien, der buldrer derudad både hvad angår tanniner, prisniveau og kendis-faktor, stjæler altid rampelyset. I kulisserne finder man ud over Arneis-druen, som af nogen kaldes for den hvide Barolo, den ret ukendte, ret så glemte og på et tidspunkt så godt som uddøde hvidvinsdrue Nascetta, der oprindeligt stammer fra dette område. Det er kun rødvinene på Nebbiolo-druen, der må smykke sig med Barolo-appellationen, men på flere af vingårdene har man alligevel genoptaget dyrkningen af Nascetta, der så ryger på flaske med betegnelsen DOC Langhe. Det sker bl.a. hos Tenuta Reverdito i en af Barolo-appellationens landsbyer, La Morra, hvor de laver uforglemmelig vin på druen fra glemmebogen. Hvilket held for en hvidvins-aficionada som mig. Selv om den lever et liv i kulissen, smager den fantastisk alligevel, og jeg giver den 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ Vinen er lækker tør, behagelig frisk og temmelig aromatisk. Let til bens. Den har et snert af krydderurter – på en god, elegant og balanceret måde. Uhmm, jeg synes, den smagte så godt! Jeg drak den først uden mad (mens jeg dog lavede mad) og bagefter sammen med et stort fad krebs og en hjemmerørt, rund og mild citronmayo. Ved ikke hvor mange flodkrebs, de har i Barolo-regionen, men det virkede faktisk som et født match! Reverdito Nascetta 2016 fås hos Erik Sørensen Vin til 110 kr. flasken, hvis du køber en hel kasse. Så har du til et helt krebsegilde – men det gør vel heller ikke noget!

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