Kvindevin i køkkenet: Osso buco & Soave

Forleden lavede jeg en fri fortolkning af den milanesiske klassiker osso buco, som måske er én af mine livretter. Nogle gange er det svært at finde godt kød til retten, og jeg greb derfor til et alternativ og brugte nyretapper skåret i store stykker, og så tilberedte jeg det ellers, som jeg plejer. Under madlavningen gik jeg og nip-drak af en flaske Soave Anselmi Capitel Foscarino fra 2016, som siden viste sig at være et utroligt godt match til støbejernsgrydens indhold.

Vinen, der er lavet af 90 % garganega og 10 % Chardonnay, var fyldig og lidt fed i det, men også med god crisp og syre. Den smagte af honning, mandler og appelsiner, og hvis du synes, det lyder sødt eller vammelt, så tager du fuldstændig fejl. Det er længe siden, der så tydeligt har stået ”smukt” på mit hvidvinsbarometer. Jeg giver den 6 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️, også selv om den er lidt pebret for mit budget. Men jeg synes, den er sine 169 kr. værd. Soave har et noget blakket ry, fordi området historisk har høstet alt for stort udbytte fra vinstokkene og lavet vin i ukritiske metermål uden at skæve til forhold som smag og kvalitet. Men denne Soave er produceret med begge dele for øje. Der er nogen her, der har gjort sig umage, og det kan smages! Du kan købe vinen hos Kjær & Sommerfeldt.

Nu får du opskriften på min osso buco, så du kan prøve, hvordan sød musik smager. For det var hvad, der opstod, da norditaliensk køkkenklassiker mødte veltillavet norditaliensk vinklassiker i mit køkken. De fleste ville servere en rødvin til denne slags simremad, men jeg synes, den robuste hvidvin giver en ekstra dimension til retten.

4 personer

Olivenolie

4-8 skiver kalveskank (eller 2 nyretapper i store stykker)

½ knoldselleri

3-4 gulerødder

2 løg

2-3 fed hvidløg

4 ds. flåede tomater

1 flaske hvidvin (evt. en billigere Soave)

Friske krydderurter som timian, rosmarin, laurbær, persille

Salt & peber

Sådan gør du …

Vend kødet i lidt mel og salt og peber, og brun det ved høj varme i olivenolie, så det ikke bare tager farve, men får en nærmest grillet overflade. Stil det til side, tør gryden af og varm noget ny olie forsigtigt op.

Snit selleri, gulerødder og løg i bittesmå tern, og hak hvidløget fint. Steg det forsigtigt i olivenolie, så løgene ikke tager farve.

Læg nu det brunede kød i gryden, og vend det rundt med grøntsagerne. Tilsæt flåede tomater, hvidvin og krydderurter, og bring det i kog. Skru derefter ned, så retten bare står og hyggesimrer de næste 3-4 timer. Du kan ikke forcere den gode smag, så giv dig god til med simringen. Smag til med salt og peber, inden du serverer med risotto milanese, gremolata og lidt godt brød.

Find flere opskrifter her.

Indlæg oprettet 231

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