Guide til vinbarer

Engang ville man have slået en høj latter op ved tanken om, at der skulle ligge vinbarer på Amager. Men det gør der nu, og de er værd at besøge. Jeg blev sendt på feltarbejde af 2300happynews for at finde 3 gode steder på det, de lokale kalder “Ønskeøen”. Tough job but somebody has to do it! Her er resultatet.

 

AU BISTROT BRYGGEN (FORMERLY KNOWN AS ADENDUM)

Adendum rimer på Bibendum og Falernum, og det er da også den allestedsnærværende Kenn Husted, der står bag Adendum, der nu også hedder Au Bistrot. Her serverer køkkenet charcuteri, ost, de lækre Ortiz-produkter fra dåse (sardiner, blæksprutter etc.) og så også varm mad. Mine børn og jeg fik langtidsbraiseret lam, der var så mør, at kniven blev gjort arbejdsløs samt kylling med kantareller og ærter, og for at bruge børnenes ord, så smagte det ”sygt godt!” Det gjorde det. Så selv om man ikke drikker vin, kan man roligt gå herhen for en bid mad.

Stedet har ca. 150 vine på det store vinkort (hvorfra alle vine kan købes med hjem til butikspris). Glaskortet byder på ca. 30 vine, og efter sigende kommer der nye og flere vine på om en måneds tid – altså medio oktober. Den gæstfri og snakkesalige restaurantchef hældte små glas op til mig, så jeg kunne smage flere forskellige ting fra glaskortet, og det var sjovt at få lov at afsøge hjørnerne af det, men der var to, der skilte sig ud:

 

Hitching Post Hometown, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara, Californien 2013

Meget let og lækker Pinot Noir. Ikke særlig amerikansk i udtrykket – det vil sige, at her er en vinmager, der kender antydningens kunst. Dejlig frugtig med bløde tanniner og god syre. Virkelig værd at skrive hjem om. Så det gør jeg nu.

El Xitxarel-lo, Penedés D.O. 

Først forelskede jeg mig i flasken, der er smukt designet uden etiket, men med ord strøget ud over hele flasken. Disse ord viste sig at være bandeord på catalansk. Og hvis man nu skal blive der, så smagte et glas af denne catalanske hvidvin sgu ret godt. Druen er den grønne drue Xarel-lo, der er en af druerne i Cava, men som her stod på egne ben. Meget aromatisk, citrusskal-agtig og lækker, men også med lidt fedme, rundhed og robusthed, der gør den velegnet som det flydende element på din tapastallerken – den kan sagtens stå mål med charcuteri, paté og fede sardiner.

Au Bistrot Bryggen – Snorresgade 1 – 2300 København S

 

 

DET ARGENTINSKE VINHUS

Har du ligesom Erik Clausen i filmen ”Den store badedag” en trang til at rykke teltpælene op og drage mod Argentina, kan du for at spare penge bare blive på Amager. I starten af Amagerbrogade kan man nemlig besøge Argentina i form af det Det argentinske vinhus. Al vinen er argentinsk, og stemningen og indretningen er provinsiel – i ordets bedste og kærligste forstand. Det kan Amager nemlig: Være provinsiel på den fede måde, selv om man – hvis vindretningen er rigtig – kan høre rådhusklokkerne. Det argentinske vinhus er nemlig vidunderligt renset for snobberi, hipsterness og smart ass-attitude. Hvilken befrielse! Her er ægte hjerteligt og hyggeligt, og der er masser af vine på glas – og det er jo altid sjovt for en vinnørd! De serverer snacks, oste og charcuteri. Jeg fik det obligatoriske bræt, som var ret standard med ost og pølse, vi alle kan købe i Irma, hvilket jeg ikke har noget dårligt at sige om – man skal bare ikke forvente hjemmelufttørret skinke eller en eller anden særlig argentinsk ost.

Til gengæld fik jeg denne fredag eftermiddag et spændende glas hvid argentiner på en drue, man ikke lige løber ind i hver dag – og så til beskedne 50 kr. glasset. Jeg fik lyst til at udforske denne drue og argentinsk vin i det hele taget, og Amager har heldigvis stedet til den slags forskning!

 

Torrontés, Pietro Marini, Argentina 2016

En aromatisk og rund hvidvin med duft af honning, blomster og ferskner – i munden mere spids og frisk med en smag, der mindede om æble og citron. Frugt og blomster overtager ikke, for vinen er også lidt tør og drøj – lidt ligesom den gamle mand , der var afbilledet på etiketten.

Det argentinske vinhus – Amagerbrogade 18 – 2300 København S

 

TOTO VIN- OG SPISEBAR

I ”gamle” dage var der ikke meget andet end mærkelige frisører, støvede lingeri-butikker og obskure kiosker på Amagerbrogade efter krydset Englandsvej/Øresundsvej. De er her stadig, men hvis man nu om stunder bevæger sig forbi krydset, kan man også gå på hyggelig vinbar i nr. 145.

Folkene bag vin- og spisebaren ejer bl.a. også Salon 39 på Frederiksberg, og så ejer de – hvad der er langt mere vigtigt – talentet for at drive et sted, man har lyst til at besøge igen! De var søde, imødekommende og proffe. Allerede i oktober skal jeg tilbage, når Toto holder Pinot Noir-aften og viser kultfilmen (for vinnørder) ”Sideways”.

Man kan sidde langs baren og spise og se kokkene forberede maden, selv om man ikke behøver kigge dem i kortene, for de kan deres kram. Jeg spiste bl.a. burrata med pesto og courgetter, hjertesalat med syltede rødløg og en smørstegt toast med kantareller. Hvis man godt kan lide desserter, kan man glæde sig over, at kokken har en ismaskine, og at han ikke er bange for at bruge den til at fremtrylle lækre sorbeter og en tiramisù-is, der fik min datter til at sukke af lykke.

Jeg fik en god rundvisning i vinkortet, der byder på vine fra hele verden – hvoraf ca. 15 er på glas. Jeg fik smagt på både Premier Cru-Champagne, hvid Bourgogne og sprød Sauvignon Blanc fra Sancerre, så de kender og har klassikerne her på etablissementet. Jeg fik mig dog en behagelig overraskelse i et glas, som viste sig at være en smuk makker til føromtalte smørstegte kantarel-toast fra Sydafrika:

 

Hamilton Russell Vineyard, Chardonnay, South Africa 2016

Normalt er jeg slet ikke en fad-pige. Jeg synes tit, fadlagringen tager overhånd, men her synes jeg, vinmageren havde fod på fadet (undskyld onkel-joken). Det var heller ikke al vinen, der havde lagret på fad, og jeg synes, den havde en virkelig god balance. Dygtigt lavet! Smørlækker, rund og indbydende uden på nogen måde at blive for meget. Og så mødte den på en eller anden måde sin bedre halvdel på min tallerken, og sød musik opstod. Tak for det!

Toto vin- & spisebar – Amagerbrogade 145 – 2300 København S 

 

 

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