Kvindevin

Blog om vin for kvinder (& andre mennesker)

Vin på januarkur og -budget

Fund til prisen, Hvidvin
Signe Wulff

Januar slår altid hårdt! Det er i virkeligheden ikke tømmermændene d. 1. januar, der er værst. Det værste er, når man skal tilbage på arbejde d. 2. og ikke kan lukke sine jeans. Og når man så lister ned i Magasin i frokostpausen med en stor sweater ned over de åbentstående bukser, finder nummeret større af yndlingsjeansene, sveder gevaldigt i den tykke vinterfrakke, står i kø alt for længe, fordi alle andre er på udsalg, endelig når frem til kassen, kører kortet igennem én gang – og én gang mere, fordi det bliver afvist, mens sveden pibler alle mulige steder på ens krop, hvor man ikke vidste, man kunne svede, prøver man med et kækt ”tredje gang er lykkens gang” til den meget stramme, men meget lidt tålmodige ekspedient, der spidst svarer: ”dit kort er spærret”, dér – lige dér – ser man for alvor i øjnene, at januar er den direkte afledte nemesis af al ens hybris-agtige gøren og laden i december. Ikke flere penge på kontoen – til gengæld godt på sidebenene. Shit.

Min januar måned har heldigvis også bibragt mig noget glædeligt. En vin naturligvis. Til januarvenligt budget – OG den passer til lette retter, fisk, skaldyr og salater, som man jo skal have masser af, så man kan få lukket de dér bukser!

Hvidvinen kommer fra Rema 1000 eller Languedoc for at være lidt mere præcis. Den er lavet af 100 % Viognier. Viognier er én af mine yndlingsdruer, selv om de desværre ofte ender ud i en vin, der kikser for producenten. En Viognier-vin kan nemlig både være totalt for meget, for kvabset og fedladen og kedelig uden syre og nuancer, og den kan også nemt oxidere og blive bitter. Men Viognier kan også give en aromatisk, indsmigrende, frugtig og lækker vin. Og det er her, vi er med denne vin.

Viognier-druen var tæt på udryddelse, da der i slutningen af 1960’erne kun var 14 hektar tilbage i hele verden – hovedsageligt i Frankrig. Det svarer sådan cirka til det samme antal fodboldbaner. Fra midten af 80’erne genvandt druen det tabte terræn og blev en rigtig modedrue, og i dag er der masser af Viognier verden over. Gudskelov for det! De mest berømte vine kommer fra den lille appellation Condrieu i det nordlige Rhône i Frankrig, hvor udbyttet er lavt og priserne høje. Lige modsat forholder det sig i det sydlige Frankrig, hvor man af og til har indtryk af, at de vælter rundt i Viognier-planter (og laver vin af dem med vekslende held).

Viognier skal drikkes ung – og der mener jeg purung! Viognier-vinen har kort holdbarhed, og alle dens fine aromaer af ferskner, meloner, passionfrugter og hvide blomster pakker sammen efter ganske kort tid. Der er nogen, der siger, man godt kan gemme de store Condrieu-vine, men jeg er ikke enig. De oxiderede nuancer i lagret Condrieu får i hvert fald ikke mig på krogen. Til gengæld tænder jeg på den unge vins florale og frugtige parfumer.

Du kan købe dig fattig i Viognier fra Cuilleron, Chapoutier og de andre store producenter fra det nordlige Rhône for ikke at tale om de få, kostbare vine fra mini-appellationen Château-Grillet. Du kan også købe en sydfransk Viognier, der ikke kan sammenlignes med de andre, men som – når en sydfransk vinmager har ramt plet – gør dig glad og får dig til at gå nynnende rundt. Og du kan nynne dag efter dag – for med en sydlig Viognier har du råd til det. Paul Mas Estate, Pézénas, Viognier 2016 koster sølle 59 kr. i Rema, men helt ærligt mener jeg, den giver dig en oplevelse, der er mindst det dobbelte værd. Det er en elegant, harmonisk og godt balanceret Viognier, der på den ene side byder på fylde og rundhed, men modsat også har god syre og friskhed i form af noget lime-, citron- og passionsfrugt-agtigt i både duft og smag. Duften fik mig også til at tænke på æble, pære, fersken – og smagen bragte mig i retning af lidt honning og melon, måske endda honningmelon. Den er læskende og mindst lige så dejlig før maden som til en kylling, der har været i ovnen med citron, timian, rød peberfrugt, løg og hvidløg.

Det sjove er, at en måneds tid før jeg fandt denne lille hvidvinsperle på en kedelig hylde i Rema ved Vesterport Station, stod jeg i den pittoreske lille by, hvor vinen stammer fra. I Pézénas købte jeg sære antikviteter og ubrugelige ting og drak en dejlig, krasbørstig kaffe, inden jeg som en anden havskildpadde, der følger sit instinkt, kørte ud mod Middelhavet, hvor jeg nåede et aftenbad i de kølige bølger på en af Europas største nudiststrande ved Cap d’Agde. Dér strammede bukserne til gengæld ikke …

 

Vil du læse om andre fund til prisen, så skal du bare klikke her!

Du kan også læse mere om min ret sjove tur til Languedoc her …

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