Vin med god syre

Starstruck over østrigsk Chardonnay

De vindrikkere, der er længst fremme i skoene, har længe mæsket sig i østrigske vine – bl.a. sprøde eksempler på Riesling og Grüner Veltliner og fine rødvine på Pinot Noir, som må få Bourgogne-bønderne til at ryste en lille smule i bukserne af skræk. Personligt har jeg forelsket mig i Fred Loimers Riesling-vine og også i den lille østrigske vinhandel på Esplanaden, som sælger dem og som er så fint indrettet. Nu er det heldigvis også sådan, at østrigerne har fundet vej til supermarkedshylderne, og hurra for det – der er meget godt at komme efter!

 

Stjerneskuddet Markowitsch

Det diskuteres i Østrig, hvem der er den største stjerne på vinens himmel. Pilen peger ofte på Gerhard Markowitsch, der er blevet kåret til Østrigs bedste vinmager af magasinet Falstaff for sin kompromisløse stræben efter kvalitet. De internationale vinguruer Jancis Robinson og Hugh Johnson roser ham og giver ham topkarakterer for bl.a. hans udgaver af Pinot Noir, Grüner Veltliner og Chardonnay. Og hans Pinot Noir Reserve er da også en drik for guder (der vist ikke skal tænke så meget over prisen på omkring 400 kr. flasken).

Hvor skuffelsen var stor, da jeg forleden satte tænderne i en af Østrigs store eksportvarer – nemlig en Mozartkugle – var der til gengæld kun udelt begejstring, da jeg smagte på Markowitschs Chardonnay 2017. Her var vi helt klart ovre i den elegante del af det, Østrig kan levere! Ikke flere tunge wienerschnitzler og sachertorte – med denne vin i glasset, kom der noget let og levende Mozart på grammofonen (i stedet for i kuglerne), de hvide Lipizzanerheste fra den spanske rideskole i Wien dressur-dansede for mine øjne, og Klimt-malerier lyste fra væggene! Så kort kan det siges.

 

Chardonnay i sin reneste, fineste form

Markowitschs Chardonnay var en ekstremt elegant og harmonisk vin. Ikke en Chardonnay for dem, der elsker den fadlagrede Bourgogne-stil – den her er for os, der søger druen i sin friskeste og fineste form uden indblanding fra egetræsfade. Da jeg smagte på den, tænkte jeg på grønne og gule frugter: citroner, lys grape, lime, pomelo, ananas, æbler, pærer og mere fra sådan et lyst, frisk og let smagsunivers. Vinen var fint aromatisk uden at være parfumeret. Den var sprød og crisp som en tidlig septembermorgen, den havde substans uden at være fed, og jeg synes, den var meget elskelig og likeable uden at være en intetsigende pleaser.

Jeg drysser 5 bankende ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️ ud over hans Chardonnay. Den koster 115 kr. pr. flaske ved køb af 6 stk. hos Supervin, og det kan du roligt kaste dig ud i efter min mening – det her er ikke en vin, man bliver træt af lige foreløbig.

Drik den før middagen uden noget. Det er godt! Og tag den med til bords sammen med skaldyr og hvid fisk, fjerkræ og andet lyst kød. Det er lige så godt! Jeg serverede den til et krebs, hvilket efterlod hele selskabet starstruck over det østrigske stjerneskud Markowitsch. Der var også nogle, der så sol, måne og stjerner dagen efter krebsegildet, så ligesom med al anden vin, anbefales det at indtage Markowitsch i moderate mængder …

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