I sandhed en sand Sancerre

De fleste kan huske det første kys, den første flyvetur eller første gang, du mødte din bedste veninde. Måske kan du også huske første gang, en vin fik skovlen under dig? Hvor det at drikke vin gik fra at være sådan et sted mellem ligegyldig og OK på oplevelsesskalaen til lige pludselig at få gang i hele sanseapparatet. I den legendariske vinfilm Sideways siger en af karakternerne, Maya: ”It was the 88 Sassicaia (altså en såkaldt supertoscaner på Cabernet Sauvignon-druer, red.) that really got me into wine.”

For mig var det en hvid Sancerre, der fik klokkerne til at bimle og som fik mig ud i afkroge af mine smagsløg, som indtil da havde ligget uudforsket hen. Indtil da havde jeg drukket og nydt meget hvidvin, men med dén Sancerre fra Domaine Laporte skete der noget! Og siden har Sauvignon Blanc-hvidvinene fra den berømte appellation i Loire haft en særlig status hos mig. Forestil dig sejrspodiet med de tre pladser: Der står ofte en flaske kølig Sancerre på podiet hos mig.

 

Sancerre til særlige øjeblikke

Jeg finder Sancerre elegant, sofistikeret og klassisk, og der er noget særligt ved at vælge en Sancerre frem for en Sauvignon Blanc fra Pouilly-Fumé eller Menetou-Salon. Det er appellationer lige op og ned ad Sancerre, hvor man kan finde fin, fin kvalitet til pengene og få en oplevelse, der er så lig Sancerre, at det kræver elite-smagsløg at opdage forskellen. Men ligesom nogle mennesker sætter kongeligt porcelæn frem, når der kommer gæster og spiser med sølvtøjet fra farmor, så kan der også være noget ophøjet og højtideligt ved at servere vine fra de klassiske appellationer ved særlige lejligheder.

Sancerre kan desværre godt være en dyr leg at lege, og det kan også være en temmelig syrlig oplevelse af og til. Og så bliver man selv ret syrlig i det, mens man hælder en flaske til over 200 kr. ned i bolognese-saucen eller bruger den som afløbsrens, hvis den er sur. Men ligesom med så mange af livets forhold, kan man også være heldig ud i disciplinen Sancerre. Og forleden tilsmilede lykken mig.

Det var en flaske ”Les Charmes” 2017 fra Domaine André Vatan, that got me. I sandhed en sand Sancerre med rig aroma, høj syre og stor friskhed. Og mere end det: Hvide blomster og kurve fulde af citrusfrugter, lidt mandler og stikkelsbær. Den var arketypisk. Hvis der fandtes et leksikon over smage, og man slog op under Sancerre, ville jeg ikke være spor overrasket over at finde Vatans ”Les Charmes” her. Kvaliteten er over niveau, og prisen er under for området, og charmøren Vatan løber af med 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️  for sin Sancerre 2017 til 160 kr. hos Victoria Vine.

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