(næsten) Hvid Châteauneuf-du-Pape

For noget tid siden havde jeg hvidvinene fra Châteuneuf-du-Pape oppe at vende i artiklen ”Når førsteelskeren ikke nødvendigvis smager bedst”. Som jeg også nævnte dengang, er hvidvinene fra den verdensberømte appellation i den dyrere ende (200-600 kr. er ikke ualmindeligt), så det er ikke en vin, man liiiige drikker hver dag. Forleden fik jeg mig så noget så heldigt som en nær-hvid-Châteauneuf-oplevelse. Så tæt på at være det – uden at være det alligevel. Châteauneuf du Pape – bare uden at sige navnet.

Det drejede sig om Le Bouquet des Garrigues blanc, Côtes du Rhône 2015 fra Le Clos du Caillou.

Da man for mange år siden skulle fastlægge grænserne for appellationen Châteauneuf-du-Pape, jog ejeren af Le Clos du Caillou geologerne, der skulle undersøge jordbundsforholdene, væk fra ejendommen. Man siger, det var fordi han ikke havde råd til at betale de udgifter, det ville medføre at få markerne ophøjet til den fine appellation. Han drev de skrækslagne eksperter væk med sit jagtgevær, og enden på den dramatiske historie blev, at kun 9 hektar af domænets marker nu ligger i appellationen Châteauneuf-du-Pape. De resterende 44 hektar blev pga. episoden med jagtgeværet klassificeret i appellationen Côtes du Rhône. De to appellationer på domænets grund er kun adskilt af et clos – altså et stengærde. Alle marker er blevet dyrket økologisk i mange år, og på stedet arbejder de nu på at opnå biodynamisk certificering. Her gør de helst tingene ved hjælp af en traktor, få redskaber og gammeldags hårdt, manuelt arbejde.

Det er med andre ord en vin, der nærmest er Châteauneuf uden at være det – og som du kan drikke med god samvittighed, fordi de dygtige folk på Le Clos du Caillou passer godt på den jordbund og de vinstokke, der skal levere vin også i fremtiden.

Le Bouquet des Garrigues blanc er lavet på en rigtig Rhône-blanding af druerne Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc og Viognier. Vinen fyldte min næse med blomster og et helt sydfransk marked, som fortsatte i smagen: modne abrikoser, ferskner, meloner, pærer, ristede pinjekerner, honning og mandler. Ikke sød, men frugtig og forfriskende og med en lækker tyngde og fylde. Jeg giver den 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️. Kan købes hos H. J. Hansen Vin til 165 kr. Jeg drak den til en risotto med karljohansvampe, hvor jeg ikke var fedtet med parmesanen. Hurra og et trefoldigt leve for den kombination!

Det er stadig mange penge for én flaske. Men hvis man måler det op imod de 200-600 kr., man skulle have lagt ved at kravle over stengærdet til Châteuneuf-du-Pape, så er det her value for money.

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