Kvindevin i køkkenet: Mortensand & Riesling

Mortensaften er lige om hjørnet, og ligesom julemaden kan få folk op at toppes, kan det være lidt af et religiøst spørgsmål, om man er til gås eller and. Jeg er til and, og her får du min mad- og vinplan for min mortensaften.

Jeg vil forkæle mig selv med en flaske tysk Riesling fra Weingut Robert Weil. Det er ikke en billig vin, men den smager SÅ godt! Jeg elsker Weils vine, der er stramme og strukturerede og lige efter bogen – og så er mortensaften jo også en særlig lejlighed, så man må godt give den lidt gas i glasset, synes jeg. Heldigvis er vinen faktisk på tilbud i øjeblikket til 169 kr. – måske ved de godt hos Jysk Vin, hvor fint and og Riesling passer sammen?

Weils Riesling har på den ene side den friske syre og på den anden side nok fylde til at spille sammen med en rustik spise som and. Rieslingen er kompleks og mineralsk og med en hel vifte af citrusfrugter i både duft og smag – mandariner, citroner, grapefrugter. Også lidt petroleum, som hører sig til, når vi taler Riesling. En særdeles elegant tysker og så sprød at du næsten forventer at høre den knase. Jeg elsker det, og jeg giver vinen 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️!

Tjek ved ubegribelig dejlig Riesling på køl. Nu til anden. Jeg kan bedst lide and i mindre mængder, så i stedet for en hel andesteg vil jeg lave confiterede andelår, som jeg synes, smager fantastisk!

Du skal starte allerede dagen før, for selv om det ikke er en tidskrævende opskrift som sådan, er tiden altså fordelt over to dage.

 

Confits de canard * 4 personer

Du skal bruge

½ spsk. peberkorn

4-5 fed hvidløg

Frisk timian

2 laurbærblade

1/2 spsk. sukker

2 spsk. salt

4 andelår

500 g andefedt (fås hos slagteren)

 

Dagen før mortensaften

Knus hvidløg og peberkorn med den flade side af din kokkekniv, og bland med nogle kviste frisk timian, laurbærblade, sukker og salt. Gnid andelårene godt med saltblandingen, og put dem i en tætsluttende pose. Pres så meget luft ud som muligt, og læg dem i køleskabet. Her skal de så ligge og hygge sig og trække smag til sig.

Selve mortensaften

Børst lårene fri af salt, og læg dem i en tykbundet gryde. Hæld andefedtet henover. Andefedtet skal dække lårene. Lad dem nu simre ved lav varme i 2 1/2 time i deres eget fedt. Tag andelårene op, dup dem, og steg dem sprøde på en pande.

Servering

Servér andelårene med hjemmesyltede rødløg, friskbagt flute og en frisk og sprød salat med hakkede hasselnødder (kun hvis du kan få god kvalitet) eller ristede mandler, hjemmelavet vinaigrette af balsamico, olivenolie, lidt dijonsennep og en lille smule flydende honning eller balsamicoglace. Og glem ikke Rieslingen i store glas, hvor du rigtig kan slynge vinen rundt og få glæde af den mineralske og frugtige duft!

PS. Slår appetitten ikke til, må du endelig ikke smide andekødet ud. Lav en rillette af resten (det er lige før, det er det allerbedste). Pil andekødet af, og trevl det med nogle gafler en skål. Bland lidt andefedt i kødet, og rør det sammen. Giv den rustikke blanding lidt havsalt og peber, og put den i et patentglas. Tryk blandingen godt ned i glasset, og sæt den på køl. Spis med samme tilbehør som til confits de canard. Rieslingen har intet at indvende – den passer stadig sammen med.

PPS. Hvis tiden løber fra dig, og du ikke når det der med de confiterede andelår, så drøn ned efter en købe-rillette hos Le Gourmand på Værnedamsvej, Magasins madafdeling eller lignende sted. Det er fast food-udgaven af mortensand, og det skal du hverken skamme eller ærgre dig over.

Find flere opskrifter her.

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