Smag med ørerne

Der er forskel på, hvor mange smagsløg man har. Jo flere smagsløg, desto mere intenst opfatter man smagen. Folk, der er særligt følsomme, kaldes supersmagere. Det gælder for cirka 25 % af befolkningen, og i den gruppe er der faktisk lidt flere kvinder end mænd, og måske er det derfor, det siges, at kvinder er bedre og er mere kvalificerede ‘smagere’ end mænd.

Grunden til at kvinder sanser bedre, er muligvis fordi, vi som stenalder-damer ikke skulle forholde os til en udløbsdato på en emballage nede fra Irma, men i stedet via sanserne skulle sikre os, at den mad, vi gav vores familie, ikke var rådden eller giftig. Forskning viser også, at en kvinde kan dufte på en mand, om han har den rette gen-sammensætning, der matcher hendes.

Lugtesansen er en vigtig del af vores oplevelse af smag. Smageoplevelsen handler slet ikke kun om det, der foregår på tungen, som man måske skulle tro. Hvis du for eksempel holder dig for næsen og smager på noget, kan du kun fornemme, om det fx er sødt eller bittert. Først i det øjeblik du trækker vejret gennem næsen, kommer smagen af fx jordbær eller citron eller hvad du nu har puttet i munden, frem.

Smag med hele kroppen

Det, vi oplever som smag, er nemlig i virkeligheden et samspil af en hel masse sansemæssige oplevelser. Lugtesansen, følesansen og høresansen spiller også ind i vores oplevelse af for eksempel en vins smag. Det kalder man for en multisensorisk smagsoplevelse.

Med smagssansen kan du fornemme grundsmagene, for eksempel og noget er sødt eller surt. Den orthonasale lugtesans giver dig en en idé om smagen, inden du smager på det, mens den retronasale lugt-oplevelse er det, du oplever, når du har noget i munden, og så trækker vejret, og luften passerer op til næsesvælget. Derudover er mundfølelsen og den kinæstetiske sans også med til at danne et indtryk af smag. Også høresansen spiller ind – tænk bare på lyden af en Champagne-prop i forhold til lyden af et skruelåg, der bliver åbnet.

Med en smag af fløjte og et hint af Mozart

Ifølge professor Charles Spence, der forsker i multisensoriske smagsoplevelser, kan man forstærke smagsindtryk ved hjælp af lyd. Således vil Mozarts fløjtekoncert i D-dur fremhæve de syrlige, spidse og mineralske noter i en Sauvignon Blanc, mens Tchaikovskys første strygekvartet i D-dur skulle gøre oplevelsen af en rød Bordeaux-vin endnu bedre.

Smagen foregår altså ikke kun i munden, og fordi oplevelsen af smag er så kompleks, er vi alle sammen utrolig nemme at få ud på gyngende grund. Hvis man sidder og smager på en vin sammen med andre, og der er én ved bordet, der kommer med sin første indskydelse omkring smagen, vil rigtig mange ud fra et ubevidst ønske om at opnå konsensus i fællesskabet allerede være på vej væk fra sin egen intuition. Og hvis du får serveret en Bourgogne til 30.000 kr. flasken i plastikglas, blæser den dig ikke gennem lokalet i samme grad, som hvis den bliver serveret i store glas, og den entusiastiske sommelier lige har fortalt om vinen.

Stol på din intuition

Jeg tror, at når man stavrer usikkert rundt i vinens verden og prøver at finde hoved og hale i det hele, skal man først og fremmest forsøge at holde fast i og stole på sin egen intuition og i virkeligheden angribe vin på samme måde som romaner, feriedestinationer, numser, film og egnsretter … Like it or not? Der er ingen endegyldige sandheder, og man skal ikke elske vinen, bare fordi de andre synes, den er vidunderlig.

Prøv at øve dig i at sanse og være bevidst om alt det, der giver dig oplevelsen af en vin: Hvordan er etiketten på flasken at røre ved, hvad dufter vinen af, inden du smager på den, hvordan ser den ud i glasset, og hvordan føles den så, når du tager den første tår?

Lad dit indre stenalder-menneske være din guide ud i vinsmagningen, og begræns dig ikke af, at det danske sprog er utroligt fattigt hvad angår ord, der beskriver smag. Brug de ord eller billedsprog, der falder dig ind uden at tænke over, om det er det rigtige vin-ord. Hvis du synes, den smager som at cykle langs strandens marehalm i solskinsvejr sammen med din farmor eller minder dig om at tage låget af æsken med macarons, du købte i Paris, akkompagneret af duften af våd bøgeskov, så er det sådan det er! Det er dig, der ved det. Og husk: Kun du kan smage, hvad der smager dig – uanset om det er mænd, egnsretter eller vin.

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