Chablis med bind for øjnene

Det er med vin, som det er med litteratur. Ligesom man skal kende Hemingway, Blixen, Shakespeare og Sartre, bør man som vininteresseret også komme igennem et pensum af for eksempel de legendariske hvidvine fra Sancerre, Mosel og Alsace, boblerne fra Champagne og de røde store vine fra Barolo, Bourgogne, Bordeaux og Rhône. For bare at nævne nogle af dem!

På pensumlisten over klassiske hvidvine finder man naturligvis også hvidvinene fra Bourgogne – og én af dem er Chablis. Navnet på en lille by i Frankrig nogle timer sydøst for Paris og også betegnelsen for hvidvine lavet på Chardonnay-druen herfra.

Nogle gange er der bare noget særligt over at sætte en vin fra en klassisk appellation på bordet. Men det er faktisk en ret vanskelig disciplin at finde eksemplarer fra Chablis under 150 kr., der ikke får munden til at snerpe og maven til at snøre sig sammen efter få slurke. Kort sagt en sur omgang. Og lidt af en jungle.

Derfor satte jeg mig for at lave en smagning af Chablis-vine (vel at mærke i den ende af skalaen, der er er til at komme i nærheden af. For Chablis’ fineste cuvéer koster hurtigt 400-500 kr.). I denne smagning var det vigtigt at finde en dejlig Chablis til under 150 kr. – og lige så vigtigt var det altså ikke sidde og tænke på, om man hellere ville have haft en anden vin til dén pris. Nej – her handlede det om at finde det bedste eksemplar til hvidvins-pensummet, og derfor var det Chablis på Chablis’ præmisser. Chablis vs. Chablis.

Jeg har før skrevet om området, og jeg falder tit for ståltanks-Chablis’erne, fordi jeg synes, de har en appellerende og attraktiv friskhed og lethed, som jeg sjældent kan finde i de dyrere vine, der oftest er mere præget af fad.

Jeg prøvesmagte i alt ni vine fra Theis Vine, Erik Sørensen Vin, Philipson Wine, The Wine Company, Supervin, Laudrup Vin og Jysk Vin. Smagningen foregik naturligvis blindt – dvs. alle flasker var behørigt tildækket og tydeligt nummereret.

For ikke at kede nogen, skal jeg nok lade være at gengive alle duft- og smagenotater, overvejelser og dilemmaer vedrørende de ni vine. I får bare mine bedste bud på baggrund af denne smagning.

 

Vinderen af Kvindevins Chablis-smagning februar 2017 – Etienne Boileau, Chablis 2015, 135 kr., The Wine Company – 5 ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Denne vin duftede af pære, vanilje og en antydning af smør. Og hvis du synes, det lyder sådan lidt mærkeligt at sidde der og drikke smør, så lad dig ikke skræmme: Vinen var en dejlig oplevelse!

Den havde noget fylde, som ikke var en effekt af fadlagring, men som – viste det sig, da jeg afslørede flaskens identitet og researchede på den – nok skyldes, at den er lavet af druer fra gamle vinstokke. Den var rund og havde en lækker viskositet (det vil sige, vinen ikke er pjasket, hvilket ikke nødvendigvis er dårligt) – og da jeg efter blindsmagningen drak et glas sammen med østers, oplevede mine smagsløg et sus af lykke. Det siges at være et klassisk match, netop fordi Chablis-vinplanterne trækker deres kraft op af en undergrund bestående af millioner af år bl.a. fossilerede østersskaller. Jeg elsker tanken om det. Jeg tør dog også godt servere den til blåmuslinger, som jeg elsker (du kan få opskriften på mine moules marinières her).

Køb Etienne Boileaus Chablis her. 

 

Andre, der udmærkede sig

Simonnet Febvre, Chablis 2016 fra Laudrup Vin koster kun under de fastsatte 150 kr., hvis man køber 12 flasker og over. Så kommer den ned under beløbsgrænsen med 139 kr. Men som min medsmagerske sagde: ”Det er kun bankdirektører, der bestiller så mange ad gangen.” Den smagte virkelig, virkelig godt (i mine noter fra smagningen står der ”Mums!”), og den bør smages af bankdirektører og andre med en højere beløbsgrænse end mig.

Én af de vine, der endte i opløbet, var en Petit Chablis – hvilket betyder, at druerne kommer fra de mindst fine marker, men den slags er en blindsmagning heldigvis ligeglad med. Det var Domaine Louis Moreau, Petit Chablis 2015, som var en dejlig frisk og markant citrus-agtig vin, der alligevel udmærkede sig ved også at have noget rundhed. Under min efterfølgende research har jeg fundet ud af, at jeg ikke er den eneste kvinde, der er faldet over denne vin. 2014-årgangen har modtaget Elle à table’s sølvmedalje. Måske et bud på en rigtig kvindevin? Prisen er 129,95 kr.

 

Fakta om Chablis

Der er fire appellationer i Chablis:

  • Chablis Grands Crus
  • Chablis Premiers Crus
  • Chablis
  • Petit Chablis

De mest prestigefyldte og meget dyre vine kommer fra Grands Crus-markerne, mens vinene med betegnelsen ”Petit Chablis” er fra de mest perifere marker og er nederst i hierarkiet og prisniveauet.

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